Tag Archives: hiking

Hiker heading downhill towards alpine lake with mountain vista in the background

Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park: A Backcountry Camping Trip

The core area of Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park has two backcountry camping areas, stunning hikes and azure lakes chock full of trout. Even better, you can get a lift straight to the campground – if you’re willing to pay for it!

If you’re planning a trip to Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park, then here’s what you need to know.

Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park

Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park

Drive east from Vancouver and the dense, wet forest eventually gives way to the desert-like Okanagan Valley. Cathedral Lakes sits just at this interchange, making it feel as though two geological worlds have collided. The impact is remarkable. The core area of Cathedral Lakes is like a checklist of everything you could want from a backcountry camping trip. Crystal clear lakes? Check. Towering mountains with unique rock formations? Yep. Wildlife viewing opportunities? For sure. In fact, the lakes are known for their trout fishing, while the park is also home to mountain goats, bighorn sheep, deer and bears.

The core area

You’ll notice that I keep mentioning the ‘core’ area. If you look at the BC Parks map, you’ll see that the park extends from the Ashnola River down to the US border. In the middle – starting at around 2,000 metres up – is the core area. Hunting is prohibited here, and it’s also where most of the good stuff is. By good stuff, I mean the campgrounds, the lakes, and some top-notch hiking trails. Oddly for a backcountry camping trip, there’s also a privately owned lodge called Cathedral Lakes Lodge. It owns the only road leading in to the core area, as well as a patch of land on which the lodge is built.

Woman in running clothes sits next to alpine lake
Ladyslipper Lake is in the core area of Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park

Cathedral Lakes Lodge

However, you don’t have to stay at the lodge. The campgrounds are operated by BC Parks, so you can either ignore the lodge or make use of some of their facilities (like buying food and drinks). It does have a very tempting hot tub/sauna set up, but unfortunately, this is reserved for guests. It’s quite strange to have civilisation nearby, including Wi-Fi and beer on tap. But it doesn’t necessarily detract from the experience, especially if you camp at Lake of the Woods. You can also pay the lodge to drive you into the core area, saving yourself a 16km hike. This is highly unusual for a backcountry camping trip, but it’s a welcome luxury!

Getting to the core area

But as with most things ‘luxurious’, getting the shuttle isn’t cheap. At the time of writing, a return trip for an adult is $150 plus tax. If that’s too spenny then you can hike in (for free!) I’ve not done the hike, but it’s said to be a strenuous, all-day excursion. The most direct hiking trail into the core area is the Lakeview Trail, which is 16km long and has 1,357m of vertical climbing. The other options are the Wall Creek Trail (20km) or the Ewart Creek Trail (28km, making it by far the longest route). We chose the shuttle this time, but I’d be willing to give the hike a go on the next occasion…or at least get the shuttle up and hike down!

If you take the shuttle

If you take the shuttle, you can expect a white-knuckle ride in either an ancient safari-style Mercedes or a decrepit Suburban. It takes about an hour along a bumpy, steep 4×4 road. If you’re in the open-sided vehicle, bear in mind that the road is dusty, so I advise sitting close to the front and wearing sunglasses and a mask/buff. Each person can bring two large items (such as a backpack and a cooler) and one small item (such as a day pack). Again, this makes for a strange backcountry camping trip, as you can take quite a lot of luggage which you don’t have to carry very far. If you prefer camping with a cooler full of beers, then this will be music to your ears.

Old safari-style vehicle
The shuttle

Booking the shuttle

You can book the shuttle online on the Cathedral Lakes Lodge website. You can choose a one-way trip or a return trip. You start at ‘base camp’, which is the parking lot. This is a secure parking lot which remains locked, other than to allow vehicles in and out for the shuttle. This was a bonus for me as I had my mountain bike in the back of my car. The shuttle only operates during summer and autumn, with lodge operations shutting down around the beginning of October. Be wary of booking the shuttle until you know your plans: they don’t do refunds. Due to wildfires in the area, I did ask to change the dates of my trip and was given a credit.

When to visit

Seeing as the core area sits at 2,000m plus, the hiking season is limited from summer to early autumn. It snowed when I was there – and it was only 1 September. My jaw dropped when the ranger came around the previous evening to tell us there’d be a high of 4°c the following day. Thankfully, I never leave home without a down jacket. Still, we didn’t really feel prepared for such cold temperatures after a blistering hot summer. So, be warned! Pack warm clothes, gloves and a hat. The weather ‘at the top’ (i.e. in the core area) can be quite different to the weather in the parking lot.

Red tent surrounded by a light dusting of snow
Snow in August

The BC Parks website says that the campgrounds can get very full at weekends during the summer. The campsites are first-come, first-serve. To avoid the crowds, it’s better to visit during the week if you can. This is what I did and it was extremely quiet. On our second night we were the only ones at our campground. Of course, that may have been due to the fact that it snowed. If you’re willing to brave even chillier temperatures, then there are a lot of larches in the core area which turn golden during early autumn (think late September/early October).

The campgrounds

There are three backcountry campgrounds in Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park, but Pyramid Lake campground has been closed due to spruce pine beetle. Sadly, this has affected lots of trees in the park. That leaves Quiniscoe Lake and Lake of the Woods campgrounds. Quiniscoe Lake campground is closest to the lodge, so if you get the shuttle up, then you barely have to walk a few steps to find a pitch. It has bear caches and campfires are allowed. Firewood can be purchased from the park operator. Lake of the Woods is about a 15 minute walk from the shuttle drop-off, but there are no caches (only pulleys) and campfires are prohibited.

Lake of the Woods, Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park
Lake of the Woods, Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park

Seeing as there was a fire ban, we opted for Lake of the Woods campground as we wanted to be further from the lodge. Personally, I think Lake of the Woods campground is prettier than Quiniscoe, with full frontal views of the mountains. But it is perhaps more exposed with greater wind chill. There are outhouses in the campgrounds which the rangers keep stocked with toilet paper. You’re asked not to pee on the ground because it attracts the mountain goats. There’s a lot of information about this in the park.

Lone mountain goat on a rocky slope
Don’t pee on the ground – the goats are attracted by the salt

Paying your fees

The backcountry campgrounds aren’t free, however. It costs $10 per night, per adult, or $5 per night, per child (between six and 15 years of age). You can either buy your permit in advance via Discover Camping. Or, you can take cash with you. There is a ranger station near the lodge, and when the ranger is on duty, he/she will do the rounds in the evening. Otherwise, there are envelopes at the information kiosk near the lodge which you can fill out and post in the adjacent letterbox. The campgrounds aren’t reservable, so paying in advance doesn’t necessarily secure you a spot.

The hiking and fishing

Most people who make the journey to Cathedral Lakes have one of two things on their mind: hiking or fishing.

There are seven lakes in the core area. Although they haven’t been stocked for decades, they have healthy populations of both cutthroat and rainbow trout. We found Ladyslipper Lake to be especially plentiful. Remember to buy a freshwater licence if you plan to fish.

Man fishing at alpine lake
Fishing at Ladyslipper Lake, Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park

The information kiosk near the ranger station has a map of the core area, along with a description of all the hiking trails. The options range from easy loops of the lakes to full day hikes. The Rim Trail is the most popular and with good reason. The route follows a ridgeline in a sort of horseshoe shape, providing 360-degree views of the Cascade Mountains and the Okanagan Mountain Range. The rock formations are like nothing I’ve seen in Canada, and looking down on the lakes from above is really spectacular.

Unique rock formations in Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park
Unique rock formations in Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park
Woman on mountain ridge smiles at camera with blue alpine lake in the distance
Looking down on Glacier Lake

Two-night itinerary

We spent two nights up at Cathedral Lakes. We took the 10am shuttle and arrived at the lodge about an hour later. After carrying our things to Lake of the Woods campground, we set up camp and had some lunch. We knew we wanted to go to Ladyslipper Lake that day but we weren’t sure of the way. So we walked back to look at the map at Quiniscoe Lake, retraced our steps to Lake of the Woods and continued on to Ladyslipper Lake. It’s not a long hike, but there is a steep uphill section. Soon the trail heads downhill and the turquoise blue of Ladyslipper Lake appeared before us. The sun was shining, so we spent a relaxing afternoon fishing and sunbathing by the lake before heading back to camp.

Hiking towards Ladyslipper Lake
Woman relaxes in sunshine next to alpine lake
Relaxing at Ladyslipper Lake

That evening the wind really picked up and the temperature dropped dramatically. That was when the ranger came round and informed us that it would be seriously cold and wet the following day. We got into bed early because it was so cold and didn’t resurface until late the next morning. At this point we weren’t too sure what to do. It had snowed in the night and there was a lot of cloud coverage. Also, we hadn’t really banked on hiking in adverse weather conditions. At about 11am we decided to go for it, and thank goodness we did! The clouds dispersed and we were treated to some really amazing views.

This was our only full day and had planned to do the Rim Trail. We retraced our steps from the day before, skirting Lake of the Woods and heading up to Ladyslipper Lake. After the little inlet the trail heads uphill towards Stone City. It was on Ladyslipper Trail that we were lucky enough to see a herd of mountain goats chilling out and munching on grass. They began moving along the trail in the direction we were headed, so we waited a while to give them some space. We then carried on up to Stone City, stopping to admire the amazing rockfaces along the way.

Herd of mountain goats in alpine meadow
The mountain goats of Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park
Woman hikes along stony trail with mountain vista behind her
Hiking up to Stone City

Once at Stone City you can take a detour to Smokey the Bear and the Giant Cleft, after which you have to return the way you came to get back to Stone City. From there, we carried on to Devil’s Woodpile. This section of the hike is where the real money shots are. The scenery is amazing and the views extend for miles in every direction.

Trail signposts in Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park
The trails are signposted
Admiring the views from the Rim Trail
Signpost on mountain trail
Devil’s Woodpile, Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park

I’d have loved to have stayed up there all day, but it was so windy and cold! We’d also started later than intended, so after Devil’s Woodpile we chose to take a right hand turn down to Glacier Lake. However, you can carry on along the ridgeline to Quiniscoe Mountain and Red Mountain. At Glacier Lake, we took the left-hand spur that leads to Quiniscoe Lake. We then returned to camp at Lake of the Woods for the evening.

Signpost on a mountain trail
Head down towards Glacier Lake, or continue along the Rim Trail
Woman hikes downhill towards alpine lake
Hiking down to Glacier Lake
Signpost on mountain trail

The following day, we had breakfast and strolled up to Pyramid Lake with our coffees. Then we packed up our camp and dropped our bags at the shuttle pick-up. Finally we hiked the loop around Quiniscoe Lake before heading back down to our car.

Getting to Cathedral Lakes Provincial Park

From Vancouver, take Highway 1 eastbound and merge onto Highway 3. Drive past Manning Provincial Park towards Keremeos. Around three miles before you reach Keremeos, you’ll see a sign for ‘Cathedral Lakes Lodge’. Turn off the highway here and follow the Ashnola Forest Service Road. You’ll go over a red bridge and pass a couple of recreation sites along the way. The road turns to gravel but keep going. If you’re taking the shuttle, continue along this road for about 13 miles (20.8km). Eventually you’ll see a bridge with a big gate on your left hand side. Wait here until the gate opens, which will be about 15 minutes before your departure time. Continue along the road a little further for the Lakeview Trailhead.

Silver car drives over red steel bridge
The red bridge

Camping nearby

If you’re on an early shuttle and you don’t want to get up at the crack of sparrow’s fart, you can always camp nearby. That’s what we did, spending the night Horeshoe Canyon Recreation Site. There are quite a few campsites down the Ashnola Forest Service Road, with other options including Red Bridge Recreation Site, Ashnola River Recreation Site, Lakeview Trailhead campground and Buckhorn campground.

Other information

Hopefully this blog post tells you everything you need to know about backcountry camping in Cathedral Lakes Provincial Parks. A few other bits of information I haven’t touched on yet:

  • Phone service is limited but you might be able to get signal near the ranger station
  • Swimming is allowed in the lakes but the water is very cold
  • There are no garbage facilities – you must pack out when you pack in
  • The hiking trails are well-marked and easy to follow
  • There isn’t an information kiosk at Lake of the Woods campground, so take a photo of the map at Quiniscoe Lake for reference

Cathedral Lakes is a really stunning area and allows easy access into the backcountry wilderness thanks to the shuttle service. It’s a trip that I thoroughly recommend!

Two people making tea on a portable stove on a stone beach

How to Zero-Waste Your Backcountry Camping Trips

When I return from a backcountry camping trip, I have next to no waste. I aspire to lead a waste-free lifestyle as best as possible and it makes sense to carry this ethos into the backcountry. After all, I love spending time in pristine wilderness, so why would I ruin it by generating a load of trash?

Zero-wasting a backcountry camping trip also makes practical sense. You have to pack out what you pack in. So if you’ve got a ton of rubbish, then you have to carry this around until you find a bin. That’s kind of annoying (although it goes without saying that it’s better than littering…)

I’d like to inspire others to reduce their impact too, which is why I’ve shared a few tips below.

Food – make your own and store in reusable containers

Shop-bought food almost inevitably comes wrapped in some kind of plastic. Snack wrappers, cling film and dehydrated meal pouches are the main culprits. To avoid this, make your own food and store it in reusable receptables. Beeswax wraps, silicone resealable bags and old plastic bags are great options. Maybe it’s not as quick and easy as grabbing a camp meal from your local shop, but it’s better for the planet’s health (and yours too, I might add).

For breakfast, I eat oats and dehydrated banana chips. I keep these in an old flour bag which I’ve been reusing for about three years.

Snacks and sandwiches I keep in beeswax wraps and nut milk bags. Take a look at my Best Hiking Snacks for inspiration.

For dinner, I make my own dehydrated camping meals. I store the mixture in small plastic bags which I wash and re-use. Find out how to make your own DIY Dehydrated Camping Meals.

The above solutions aren’t always plastic-free. I don’t use paper bags because they tear easily. Also, I don’t want my food to get wet and mouldy. My focus is on finding sustainable solutions – ones that can be used time and time again.

A saucepan full of stew heat on an open fire on a stony beach
One of my homemade dehydrated camping meals

Buying food – head to dispensaries or bulk sections of the supermarket

When buying food for your backcountry camping trips, you can avoid a lot of plastic by buying from dispensaries and the bulk section of supermarkets. Again, this does take a little bit more effort, but it’s worth it. Take your own containers, be it old bags or nut milk bags.

Water – use a reservoir with a water filter

I use a 1.5 litre water reservoir – I don’t buy single-use water bottles. If you’re heading out for more than a day, then you need to check whether the water sources are safe to drink from. If not, boil the water before consumption and/or get a water filter. This creates less waste than using water purification tablets.

Stainless-steel bottles are also great for the environment because they last a lifetime and don’t leach plastics. However, they’re heavy and don’t usually have much capacity.

Woman sips from stainless steel bottle while on mountain summit
No single-use bottles here!

Fuel – use matches and recycle canisters

Fuel is a tricky one because it’s inherently wasteful. Making a campfire means that you avoid having to use gas canisters, but comes with its own set of environmental problems. Also, fires aren’t always allowed. If you do make a fire, use matches instead of a lighter. Matches break down, whereas lighters inevitably got lost or thrown out.

I’ve started using a liquid fuel stove because the fuel lasts much longer and can be refilled. If you use gas canisters, then you can buy a tool that safely pierces them, like this one from Jetboil. This allows you to toss them in the recycling bin. You might also be able to take them to a local recycling depot.

Toileting – natural toilet paper is OK!

When going to the toilet in the backcountry, you should dig a cathole, do your business into it and then cover it back up.

Related: How to Poop Outdoors

With regards to toilet paper, Leave No Trace Canada states:

“Use toilet paper sparingly and use only plain, white, non-perfumed brands. Toilet paper must be disposed of properly! It should either placed in a bag and packed out or be thoroughly buried in a cathole. Natural toilet paper has been used by many campers for years. When done correctly, this method is as sanitary as regular toilet paper, but without the impact problems. Popular types of natural toilet paper include stones, vegetation and snow. Obviously, some experimentation is necessary to make this practice work for you, but it is worth a try!”

In short, use non-perfumed toilet paper and bury it in the cathole, or pack it out. Or, to really make it zero-waste, use natural toilet paper. Moss works particularly well in my experience!

Hygiene – go natural

If you’re in the backcountry, then how clean do you really need to be? Honestly, you can wait until you get home to shower. You don’t need to bathe yourself in wet wipes. (FYI: biodegradable wet wipes are a lie – they take a VERY long time to break down).

If possible, I’ll have a dunk in the ocean or a lake, river or stream (assuming swimming is allowed). When it’s cold, I’ve been known to heat some water, strip off and have an ‘intimate’ wash. If I’m feeling really gross, I’ll use a teeny amount of biodegradable soap, although any grey water has to be disposed of at least 200m from alpine lakes and streams. If you use soap sparingly then a little bottle can last years, after which it can be refilled at a dispensary.

How to deal with your period in the backcountry
Off for a saltwater bath

I use a bamboo toothbrush and I get my toothpaste from a dispensary which I decant into a little tin for backcountry camping. I often make my own deodorant using this recipe, which I spoon into a little travel-sized container. Or I’ll use Attitude Super Leaves deodorant.

For feminine hygiene, I use a Diva Cup, ensuring I never have to throw away tampons or sanitary pads again. I’ve written a whole blog on this topic titled How to Handle Your Period in the Backcountry.

Gear – buy once, buy well and reuse

When it comes to gear, the best philosophy is to buy once and buy well. If you get quality goods, then they’re much more likely to last. (I know this is expensive, which is why I’ve written a blog post on How to Buy Good Outdoor Gear on the Cheap). Also be sure to look after your stuff. Dry out your tent when you get home, for example, and don’t store your sleeping bag in its stuff-sack. These practices promote longevity.

As for all the other bits and bobs, go for items that are reusable. Rather than a single use plastic spoon, take a spork or stainless-steel cutlery. I take a fork and spoon from my cutlery draw at home and use the knife on my multi-tool. I use a stainless-steel bowl as a pan, which I eat directly out of. (Side note: I actually got the bowl from a thrift store – outdoor gear doesn’t have to be fancy!) My water reservoir stores all my water, but I also have an insulated flask for hot drinks. I make tea with tea leaves, which I keep in a little pouch (and which can be refilled at places like David’s Tea or other dispensaries).

Electronics – opt for rechargeable

For electronics, opt for items that are rechargeable. That way, you’re not gunning through a load of batteries. I use the Petzl Bindi headlamp which can be recharged. Solar battery banks can help your electronics stay topped up with juice.

Dogs – a note on poo bags

I love dogs! But what I don’t love is abandoned poo bags littered along the trails. Sadly, this is something I encounter A LOT. So I just thought I’d use this opportunity to say that poo bags aren’t biodegradable, even if they say they are. OK, they might break down eventually, but it’ll take years and years. If your dog poops, either bag it up and pack it out with you. Or dig a hole and bury it, like you would with human waste.

Getting to the trailhead – try cycling, public transport or car-sharing

Even if you stick to the above advice, one thing will undo all your good work: driving to the trailhead. For most of us, this will be the biggest source of carbon emissions when backcountry camping. It was only when my car broke down that I started to cycle to the trailheads near my home. It’s amazing what you can reach without a vehicle. If this is a step too far, consider public transport or car-sharing instead.

What have I missed? If you have any other zero-waste backcountry camping tips then I’d love to hear them!

Trail mix held in cupped hands

10 Best Hiking Snacks

Hiking requires fuel, and that means snacks! But you can do better than your bog-standard Cliff Bar. Instead, why not try these healthy vegetarian hiking snacks, nearly all of which are homemade. They’re everything a hiking snack needs to be: robust, high in energy and goddamn tasty. They’re also great for trail running, ski touring and multi-day hikes.

Good old raisins and peanuts (GORP)

Chuck some raisins and some peanuts in a bag and voila: you’ve made good old raisins and peanuts. A simple hiking snack that’s ready in approximately five seconds, but still packs a nutritional punch.

Zero-waste tips: store your GORP in a nut milk bag, or a resealable silicone/plastic bag which you can wash and re-use. If possible, buy the ingredients from a dispensary.

Trail mix

If GORP is a bit plain Jane for you, take things up a notch by throwing in some other nuts, seeds, chocolate chips or dried fruit. You can buy trail mix from stores, but it’s more fun to make your own. My favourite trail mix goodies include pumpkin seeds, cashew nuts, sultanas, chunks of dark chocolate and banana chips.

Zero-waste tips: store your trail mix in a nut milk bag, or a resealable silicone/plastic bag which you can wash and re-use. If possible, buy the ingredients from a dispensary.

Logan bread

Logan bread is a dense bread which was actually created with mountaineering in mind. Legend has it that a team setting out to summit Mount Logan in 1950 required a quick, calorie-rich, indestructible snack: and so, Logan bread was born.

The great thing about Logan bread is that you can adapt the ingredients to suit your taste, budget and basically whatever you have in the cupboard. One batch also creates a lot of bars which you can share amongst your hiking buddies or freeze for future use.

Check out this Logan bread recipe from How to Wilderness.

Zero-waste tips: If possible, buy the ingredients from a dispensary. Wrap your Logan bread in beeswax wraps when you head out hiking. Freeze anything you don’t need to eat right away.

Dehydrated banana chips

Homemade banana chips take a little bit of foresight, but the results are downright delicious. If you have dehydrator, you simply need to:

  1. Line the trays of your dehydrator with baking parchment
  2. Thinly slice some bananas – the riper the better
  3. Spread the banana slices across the trays
  4. Turn the machine on and leave for around 12 hours, or less if you prefer them a little bit chewy

When they’re done, carefully peel them off the baking parchment and pop them in a plastic/paper bag. Homemade banana chips are way healthier than the shop-bought ones, which are sometimes fried and often contain added sugar.

Chopped up banana in two dehydrator trays stacked on a wooden table
Chopped up bananas ready to be dehydrated
Dehydrated banana chips in a white bowl on a wooden chopping board
Dehydrated banana chips

Oat, peanut butter and chocolate energy balls

Energy balls, power balls, energy bites, bliss balls: call them what you will. In essence, I’m talking about a mish mash of yummy, high-energy ingredients that you can chomp down in a bite or two.

These no-bake energy balls are my go-to option. They make around 12 balls depending on how large you roll them.


  • 1 cup of rolled oats
  • ½ cup of crunchy peanut butter
  • ½ cup of dark chocolate chips (or break up a chocolate bar and put it in a food blender)
  • ½ cup of ground flax seed (or pumpkin seeds which you can grind up in a blender)
  • ⅓ cup of honey


  1. Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl
  2. Grab half a handful of mixture and use your hands to roll into a ball – continue until there’s no mixture left
  3. Place all the balls on a plate or chopping board and refrigerate overnight

For more inspiration, check out these 33 energy ball recipes from Greatist.

Zero-waste tips: If possible, buy the ingredients from a dispensary. Wrap your energy bites in beeswax wraps or store in a resealable silicone/plastic bag which you can wash and re-use.

Food on wooden chopping board
Peanut butter and chocolate energy balls

Banana and oat snack bars

There are a whole lot of companies selling snack bars these days, but homemade bars are cheaper, healthier and don’t come wrapped in plastic. Make the day before your hike and chomp at your leisure.

These banana and oat bars are my favourite. The following recipe makes about 12, depending on how big you cut them.


  • 4 cups of rolled oats
  • 6 large over-ripe bananas, mashed up
  • ¼ cup of pitted dates, chopped up
  • ¼ cup of chopped nuts, such as peanuts, cashew nuts or walnuts
  • 6 tablespoons of honey or agave nectar
  • 1 teaspoon of cinnamon
  • ½ cup of shredded coconut (optional)
  • Baking parchment


  1. Pre-heat oven to 350°F/175°C
  2. Mix everything together in a bowl
  3. Line a baking tray with baking parchment
  4. Tip ingredients onto the tray, pressing down to compact
  5. Bake for 30 minutes until golden
  6. Leave to cool, turn out of the baking tray and cut into squares

Zero-waste tips: If possible, buy the ingredients from a dispensary. Wrap your snack bars in beeswax wraps.

Sugar free cookies/banana bread

Sugar-free snacks can be difficult to come by. Even supposedly ‘sugar-free’ recipes often contain honey, which really doesn’t count. If you’re looking to avoid sugar, I like these sugar-free cookies from Super Healthy Kids (disclaimer: can be eaten by adults too). This sugar-free banana bread is also delicious.


This list wouldn’t be complete without the inclusion of the time-honoured sandwich. Get two pieces of bread or a bun and slap whatever filling you like in the middle. Peanut butter and jam sammies are a firm favourite amongst hikers. Hard cheese such as cheddar is another good option as it’s durable and high in calories. For something a bit different, try peanut butter and roasted sweet potato fries.

Zero-waste tips: wrap your snack bars in beeswax wraps.

Woman in snowy mountain setting eats sandwich
Chomping on a sandwich


Plot twist: you can eat hot food while hiking! This is especially great if you’re hiking in cold conditions. Simply make your soup-of-choice, warm it up in the morning and decant it into an insulated flask (like a Thermos or a Yeti). It should stay hot for up to 12 hours. If you have a stove with you, you can always carry the soup cold and warm it up when you stop for a break.

I love a miso soup or a ramen, but really, I’m happy to glug down any veggie soup going.

Zero-waste tips: make your own soups from old veggies. Store in a re-usable flask and take your own cutlery/chopsticks if needed.

Cheese and crackers

The cheese and cracker combo is another classic among hikers. Hard cheese travels well and is an energy-dense food. The cracker acts as a vehicle, adding a little bit of crunch to the party. Even if the crackers are stale and slightly battered, it’ll still satisfy your hungry belly. Just remember to slice the cheese before you go, or take a pocket-knife with you.

Zero-waste tips: this isn’t really a zero-waste tip, but try to buy crackers that don’t contain palm oil (because palm oil is bad – if you don’t know why, Google it). You can also buy cheese that isn’t wrapped in plastic from a cheese counter. Store it in a reusable container instead.

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Woman wearing purple backpack stands on hiking trail looking at mountains

12 Common Backcountry Camping Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them!)

Backcountry camping is one big learning curve. Unless you grew up in an outdoorsy family, it’s very likely that you’ll make mistakes the first time you sleep in the wilds. The next time you go, you’ll be a little bit better at it. Eventually, you’ll stride along the trails with the confidence of a seasoned hiking veteran.

Until you reach that point, please remember that making mistakes isn’t something to be ashamed of. Not everyone was raised to knowing how to poop in the woods or rustle up a fire from a few pinecones. Yet that doesn’t mean you can’t learn. People often scoff at beginners, but they forget that everyone has to start somewhere.

Mistakes can, however, be problematic when it comes to safety. The backcountry is, by its very definition, a wilderness. Getting by on a wing and a prayer isn’t recommended. For your own well-being – and that of the natural habitat around you – it’s best that you try to minimise any errors. Get advice, do research and read up on best practice. It could just save your bacon.

To help you on your way, I’ve outlined 12 common mistakes that rookie backcountry campers make – and how you can avoid them.

Mistake #1: wearing the wrong clothes and footwear

The garments that make up your everyday wardrobe won’t generally be suitable for hiking into the backcountry for an overnight camp. This is a mistake I made on my first wild camping expedition to Dartmoor National Park in the UK. It was February, so I wore jeans, a cotton T-shirt, a huge jumper, a bottle hat and a heavy coat that I’d normally use for horse-riding. I was sweating within seconds.

Ideally, you want to wear lightweight clothes that wick away sweat. These should be made of wool or synthetic fibres. Don’t wear cotton or denim. You should also adopt the three-layer system of a baselayer, a mid-layer and an outer layer. You won’t necessarily need to wear all three layers at once if it’s warm outside, but you should pack them in case of bad weather. Remember the mantra ‘be bold, start cold’. In other words, don’t overdress when you begin your hike. You’ll warm up very quickly. You can add layers when you stop at camp for the evening.

On your feet, you need hiking boots or trail running shoes at a minimum. Trainers with a poor tread (and other footwear, like flip flops) increase the risk of slips and trips. Be sure to get hiking boots that fit your feet properly (this in itself is a common problem for new hikers). Too big and your feet will slide around. Too small and your toenails will fall off. Either way, you’ll get blisters, which are so incredibly painful when you’re hiking with a heavy pack. Stores that specialise in outdoor gear can help you choose the right footwear. It’s also wise to take a blister kit, such as Compeed or 2nd Skin, just in case.


  • Wear proper hiking boots
  • Wear clothes made of wool or synthetic materials
  • Get a lightweight waterproof rain jacket
  • Use a three-layer system
  • Pack extra clothes for the evening
  • Pack a blister kit
  • Try to wear your hiking boots in before you go


  • Wear cotton or denim
  • Wear trainers, sandals or flip flops
  • Wear so many clothes that you overheat
  • Take too many clothes with you – you only really need one outfit for hiking in, plus some extra layers for sleeping in

Related: What to Wear Hiking in Winter

Mistake #2: not taking the right gear

People often wrongly assume that backcountry camping is much like car camping. Actually, they’re two entirely different beasts, and as such require a completely different set of gear. Your normal camping tent will likely be far too bulky to carry, as will your kitchen pots and pans. Instead, you’ll want stuff that’s lightweight and efficient. That means a lightweight tent, a lightweight sleeping mat, a lightweight sleeping bag, a lightweight stove and lightweight cooking utensils. Oh, and you’ll need a hiking backpack to put it all in, preferably one that fits your frame.

Lots of stores and online retailers sell goods that are specifically designed for backcountry camping. The amount of choice can be seriously overwhelming for the uninitiated. Staff at outdoor shops can advise you further, and kit reviews on outdoor blogs are another useful source of information. Unfortunately, all this new gear comes with a considerable price tag. However, there are ways to buy good gear on the cheap. Alternatively, you can always borrow from outdoorsy friends or rent items.

At a bare minimum, you’ll need to take a sleeping system, a cooking system and the 10 Essentials. You need to tailor some of this gear to the conditions that you’ll encounter. A sleeping bag that’s rated for +5°c won’t keep you warm in a cold alpine setting. Check what season each item is suited to and be sure that it corresponds to the conditions you’ll likely experience on your hike.


  • Invest in (or borrow) lightweight backcountry camping gear
  • Get a proper hiking backpack and make sure it’s fitted to your body shape
  • Carry the 10 Essentials
  • Take back-up items like matches and batteries for a headtorch


  • Use gear designed only for car camping
  • Use gear that is inappropriate for the season
  • Bankrupt yourself getting all the best gear (unless you the funds of course!) Build it up slowly or buy second-hand
rent tent on St Mark's Summit

Mistake #3: not testing out gear beforehand

This is a classic rookie error, and one that I’ve made before. After purchasing a new stove, I didn’t check how to use it until I was camped on top of a snowy mountain in February. There was a seriously hairy moment when I thought I was going to burn the warming hut down.

So, please learn from my faux pas: if you do invest in new gear, then know how to use it, before you set off. Once you’re out on the trail, it may be too late to read the instruction manual or search for online tutorials. It may even be broken or faulty, in which case, you really want to know about it before you need it ‘for real’.

Even if your gear’s not new, you should still check that everything’s in good working order after each expedition. Or, that items you’ve used have been replaced, like band-aids in a first aid kit.


  • Test all your gear at home before you leave
  • Know how to use everything
  • Put up your tent at home
  • Attend to any kit that needs to be recharged, fixed or replaced


  • Assume you’ll be able to figure it out on the trail
  • Wait to use something for the first time on the trail

Mistake #4: carrying too much stuff

If you’ve read Wild by Cheryl Strayed, you’ll know that she begins hiking the Pacific Crest Trail with a ludicrously heavy backpack that she affectionately names ‘Monster’. Two weeks in, bruised and blistered by its weight, she meets a man who scrutinises the contents of her pack. He ruthlessly discards the items she doesn’t truly need – a foldable saw and a 12-pack of condoms included.

This is an important lesson that almost all backcountry hikers go through. You will inevitably take too much stuff on your first outing and your pack will be unnecessarily heavy. However, you’ll learn what works with time. The all-important backcountry camping gear will also help, as it’s lightweight by design.

In the absence of an all-knowing friend who can advise you of such things, you will have to police yourself on this matter. Remember that you must carry everything on your back. Not only that, but you’ll have to carry this pack for some distance, probably over difficult terrain that requires you to step up, over and down uneven objects (like rocks, roots, stairs and boulders). Select everything you take very carefully and only pack things you actually need.

Having said that, don’t pare back on the essential items. I’ve heard of people trying to lighten their load by not taking a sleeping bag, only to freeze during the nighttime at a high elevation camp. There’s definitely something to be said for cutting down on clutter, but don’t forgo the things that will keep you alive.


  • Research what you need to take backcountry camping
  • Cut back on luxury/non-essential items
  • Consider lightweight alternatives, such as taking a Kindle rather than a book
  • Save weight where possible – some people even saw off the end of their toothbrush to shave a couple of grams from their load
  • Share the load with a hiking buddy if possible, such as divvying up the tent


  • Leave essential items at home
  • Take heavy (or really any) things you don’t need
  • Forget that a heavy backpack can get very uncomfortable, very quickly
Woman wearing backpack stands in front of turquoise lake

Mistake #5: not taking enough food and water

Food and water are your life source, especially when you’re exerting yourself on the trail with a heavy pack strapped to your back. You really don’t want to run out of either. Like pretty much every mistake on this list, this is something I’ve done personally. In an attempt to travel lightly, I didn’t take enough food on an overnight hike, meaning I had nothing to eat on the final day. I made it down the mountain feeling a little dizzy, went to the nearest restaurant and quickly inhaled a two-course meal.

Thankfully, I only had to make it through one day without food. Any longer and you start running into problems. So, always take more food that you think you need. I know I just waxed lyrical about cutting back on non-essential items, but I think you’ll agree that food and water are absolutely necessary. You’ll learn how much food you need as you go along. In any event, you should always take extra, just in case something goes wrong and you’re on the trail for longer than expected. However, don’t take stuff like tins which are both bulky and heavy. Instead, consider taking dehydrated meals and snacks such as nuts, chocolate and raisins.

Related: Make Your Own DIY Dehydrated Camping Meals

As for water, this is a tricky one. Water is VERY heavy. But you need to take on enough fluids, and you may need extra for cooking with. Ideally, you’ll fill up with water as you go along, filtering and purifying as needed. You must check you can do this before you set off for your hike. Research whether there are any creeks, streams, rivers or lakes along your route, and whether they’ll likely be flowing (sometimes they can dry up in warm weather). If there isn’t a reliable water source, you’ll need to take enough water to last for the duration of the hike.

If you’re new to backcountry camping, then I recommend choosing a route that has a reliable water source for your first few outings. This will make your life easier as you’ll have one less thing to worry about.


  • Take more food than you think you’ll need
  • Learn from each hike as to the amount of food you tend to eat
  • Research water sources along your route
  • Eat ‘backpacking food’ that’s high in energy but is easy to carry, like dehydrated food
  • Treat or boil water before drinking
  • Refill your water receptacles whenever you can
  • Use water bladders instead of heavy water bottles (unless it’s very cold)


  • Scrimp on food and water
  • Take food that is heavy, such as canned goods
  • Drink water that is untreated

Mistake #6: not drinking or eating enough

While we’re on the subject, another common mistake is to carry enough food and water, but to fail to consume it. People often say they don’t feel thirsty or hungry while hiking. Or they’re tempted to miss meals to make up time or because they’re just too tired to bother. However, you need to keep your body fuelled and hydrated properly. Else, you’ll start to feel unwell, making things much harder than they need to be.

Related: What to Eat on a Multi-Day Hike


  • Eat and drink regularly
  • Drink more water if you’re not peeing frequently or have a headache
  • Eat more food if you feel hungry, faint or low on energy
  • Make time to do all of the above


  • Skip meals
  • Forget that you can get dehydrated, even if it’s cold outside
Man in orange top sits next to fire on rocky plateau with rent tent in the background

Mistake #7: choosing a route that’s too difficult

As a newbie, it makes sense to start with something easy while you learn the ropes. Hiking a 10km trail is one thing. Hiking a 10km trail with a heavily laden backpack on is quite another. It also requires a certain type of fitness. It’s a cardiovascular workout, but it also requires a lot of strength. After all, your shoulders, back and hips must bear the weight of your pack. In turn, this can take its toll on your legs, feet, glutes and core. This fitness can take a while to build, so it’s best to ease yourself into it.

The difficulty of a hike is dictated by the distance, the amount of elevation gain and the altitude. So, while you may be drawn to a 5km hike, it may be less appealing if there’s 1,000m of elevation gain (in other words, you’ll be walking uphill a lot). You might have your heart set on an epic multi-day hike, but I recommend doing some easier practice runs first, rather than jumping in at the deep end.

There are lots of ways to research hikes. Websites/apps such as All Trails and Trailforks are useful. There are also lots of location-based sites, such as Vancouver Trails. Hiking forums and blogs are additional resources you can use. Be sure to choose a route that allows backcountry camping and has favourable conditions (see mistake number 8 below!) Depending on where you live, it’s probably wise to wait until summer or early autumn to venture on your inaugural backcountry camping trip. This means longer daylight hours, easier trail conditions and (hopefully) better weather.


  • Choose an easy hike for your first outing
  • Take the distance, elevation gain and altitude into account
  • Build yourself up to longer, more difficult hikes
  • Train by going on day hikes with a heavy pack
  • Select a hike that is easy to navigate


  • Be hard on yourself if you find it difficult
  • Forget that it takes time to build muscle and endurance
  • Camp illegally
  • Give up!

Mistake #8: not checking the trail conditions and weather

Imagine it’s a glorious spring day in May. It’s been hot for several days, the ski hill’s been shut for a month and you decide to hike to a lake in the backcountry. It’s seriously hot in the city, so you wear shorts and sling a couple of layers in your pack, along with your camping gear. You envisage swimming in the lake and basking in the sunshine. Ten minutes in, you’re trudging through snow, which is still knee-deep. It’s a white-out, snow is tumbling over the top of your boots and you’re shivering with cold. You’re slipping every other step and there’s no way you’re reaching that alpine lake – which is probably still frozen anyway. After nearly sliding to your death over a cliff, you accept you weren’t prepared for these conditions and return home defeated.

A true story. Not my story, but someone I know. It was a scary lesson which, thankfully, didn’t end in disaster.

Here’s the thing: conditions on the trail can be very different to the conditions you see when you look out your window. Having moved to Canada from the UK, this is still something that I have to remind myself of. Rain might be falling as snow, clouds might be obscuring the sunshine, rivers might have caused creeks to swell to impassable rivers, and storms might have caused trees to blow down. Then there’s the snow. Snow can persist at high elevations until very late into the summer (or even all year round). Even if the temperatures are soaring, you may still need micro-spikes up on those mountains.

Always research the trail conditions before you travel. There’s no single source that will tell you exactly what’s going on out there. Hiking forums, blogs and social media can all be useful. Check recent weather reports. And if a trail report provides a recommended hiking season, then consider this as well-informed guidance.

Also check the weather forecast for your trip. If you’re not prepared to hike/camp in rain, snow or extreme heat, there’s no shame in postponing your backcountry camping trip until another day. Mountain forecast, snow forecast, the BBC and Environment Canada are all useful resources.


  • Check the trail conditions before you leave home
  • Check the weather before you leave
  • Adapt your clothes and gear to the expected conditions/weather
  • Pack your gear in waterproof stuff sacks and put a rain cover over your bag, if it’s going to be wet


  • Forget that the conditions can be very different to what you see out of the window
  • Hike into the backcountry if you’re unprepared for the conditions/weather
  • Be afraid to postpone your trip if you need
  • Let your stuff get wet, especially your sleeping bag and camp clothes

Mistake #9: getting lost

Actually, everyone gets lost from time to time. The trick is to prevent this from happening as best as possible. Before you go, research your route in detail and take down as much information as you can. Sometimes, written directions are incredibly helpful. Resources such as All Trails, Trail Forks, blogs, books and hiking websites should hold the information you need.

While on the trail, keep your eyes peeled for waymarkers. These vary depending on where you are. In North America, there are little orange markers attached to trees and logs. Alternatively, orange paint may be sprayed on rocks and boulders, or flagging tape tied to bushes. In the UK (where trees are scant) there are often little stone cairns to guide you.

In certain situations, there won’t be any signposts and route-finding skills are necessary. This means getting a map and compass and knowing how to use them. Or, you can download a map to your phone using apps such as Gaia.

If you do get lost, then it’s important to know what to do. This is often the difference between an inexperienced hiker and someone who’s used to spending time in the backcountry. Stop, stay calm and look around for waymarkers. Backtrack to the last marker you saw and try to rejoin the trail. If you are truly, impossibly lost, then stop and make camp. After all, you’ve got all your overnight stuff with you. You should then call the police and request a search and rescue. It pays to have a satellite device for this purpose, such as an InReach, SPOT or Somewear Labs. Don’t assume that by going downhill, you’ll reach safety. You may end up in a gully or on a cliff-face which is actually more dangerous.


  • Research your route in detail before you leave
  • Note down directions and carry them with you
  • Watch out for waymarkers and signposts
  • Take navigational tools, including a topographic map, compass and online map (downloaded)
  • Stay calm if you get lost
  • Call search and rescue if you need
  • Take a satellite communication device with you


  • Assume the route will be signposted
  • Choose a hike that is hard to navigate – until you’ve got some experience, at least!
  • Panic if you get lost
  • Waste your phone battery by calling people who can’t help you

Mistake #10: Forgetting to leave a trip plan

Leaving a trip plan is something I now do religiously, but it wasn’t always the case. The more I’ve learned about backcountry camping, the more cautious I’ve become. Leaving a trip plan basically means telling someone where you’re going and when they’re likely to hear from you. If they don’t, they can raise the alarm and a search and rescue can be initiated. Otherwise, it might not become apparent that you’re missing until days later. And when it does become clear that something’s amiss, rescuers won’t know where to look.


  • Leave your itinerary with someone who isn’t going on your backcountry camping trip
  • Tell them exactly where you intend to go, including where you expect to camp
  • Tell them what times you expect to set off and return
  • Provide them with a ‘cut off’ time, meaning the time at which they should start to get concerned


  • Hike into the backcountry without telling anyone where you’re going
  • Veer off-course intentionally, unless you have to

Mistake #11: Not following Leave No Trace principles

As a beginner backcountry camper, there’s no reason why you’d know about the Leave No Trace principles. But they are oh-so-very important. Together, they are the code of outdoor ethics. They are designed to reduce human impact on nature, ensuring it is preserved for the generations to come. There are seven Leave No Trace principles:

  1. Plan ahead and prepare
  2. Travel and camp on durable surfaces
  3. Dispose of waste properly
  4. Leave what you find
  5. Minimise campfire impacts
  6. Respect wildlife
  7. Be considerate of others

Some common mistakes made by backcountry campers include:

  • Setting up camp on delicate eco-systems
  • Not burying poo and other waste products, such as dirty dish water
  • Not packing out trash, including menstrual items and wet wipes (which aren’t biodegradable, no matter what they say)
  • Poor campfire practices

To be a responsible backcountry camper, be sure to read up on the Leave No Trace principles. You might also be interested in how to handle your period in the backcountry, and how to poop outdoors.

Mistake #12: Not being wildlife-savvy

If you’re not accustomed to tramping around the great outdoors, then you probably won’t be au fait with the wildlife either. That can be a bit scary, whether you’re facing down a herd of angry cows or trying to pass a rattlesnake coiled up on the path. Then there are bears, cougars, coyotes, ticks and a multitude of other creatures lurking in the shadows.

The advice for each type of animal encounter is different, so you’ll need to do some research based on your locale. Look Big by Rachel Levin provides a definite guide for everything from alligators to wolves.

Finally, always remember that wild animals are just that: wild. They mustn’t be fed human food, whether from your hand (as with birds) or from left-behind trash (as often happens with bears). It’s also important to store your food properly while you’re at camp. Again, this depends on what wildlife are around you. If it’s just rodents, then you’ll need to store it in airtight containers to prevent them from nibbling on your favourite hiking snacks. If it’s bears, then you’ll need to use a food cache (if available) or put everything in a bear canister and hang it up high.

I once left my food outside, feeling safe in the knowledge that I wasn’t in bear country. Well guess what? The raccoons got everything.


  • Research how to deal with wildlife encounters, based on the area you’ll be exploring
  • Store your food properly at camp
  • Be bear aware, if you’re hiking in bear country
  • Use common sense around wildlife


  • Feed any type of wildlife, intentionally or unintentionally
  • Leave your food out while you sleep (or in your tent, depending on where you are)
  • Approach wildlife

Practise makes perfect

This is a lot of information to take on board. Hopefully it helps your first backcountry camping experience run smoothly. As with anything in life, practise makes perfect. You’ll learn something every time you go backcountry camping, whether that’s how many clothes you need or how much food you tend to eat on the trails.

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Fairview Bay Hut

Hiking from Saltery Bay to Fairview Bay Hut

The hike from Saltery Bay to Fairview Bay Hut is a 14km round-trip that weaves through the forest and along the coastline. The trailhead is easy to access, making it ideal for anyone wanting to experience a short section of the Sunshine Coast Trail.

Saltery Bay to Fairview Bay hike – quick facts

  • Distance: 14km round trip
  • Rating: Intermediate
  • When to hike it: Any time of year
  • Time needed: Approximately 5 hours
  • Start/end: Near the Saltery Bay ferry terminal on the northern Sunshine Coast, British Columbia
  • Camping/huts: The hut at Fairview Bay is free to stay in. If it’s full, you can always camp outside and make use of the facilities.
  • Water: There are a couple of creeks along the way, as well as one near the hut. However, they can dry up in the later summer months.
  • Dogs: Are permitted and can easily navigate the terrain, but cannot stay inside the huts.
  • Marine access: You can also kayak or canoe into Fairview Bay Hut, which is the only hut on the SCT with marine access.
  • Longer hike: You can make this into a longer hike by continuing onto Rainy Day Lake and looping back round to Saltery Bay (approx. 18km).
Map of part of the Sunshine Coast Trail
There’s a map at the start of the trail

Hiking a section of the Sunshine Coast Trail

The Sunshine Coast Trail (SCT) is a 180km point-to-point hike that stretches the length of the northern Sunshine Coast. It takes around eight days to do the whole thing. If you don’t have that kind of time (or endurance!) then you can always hike a shorter section, either as a day hike or as a multi-day hike.

There are various access points along the trail. Saltery Bay is one of the most user-friendly trailheads, as it’s about a two minute drive from the ferry terminal. You don’t need a 4×4 or high clearance vehicle and there’s ample parking. You can do it as an out and back hike, or you can continue up to Rainy Day Lake and make it into a loop (which increases the distance to about 18km). Both options can be done as a day hike, or you can stop and camp at the huts – the choice is entirely yours.

[Note: the hike from Inland Lake to Confederation Lake is another good option for those wanting either a day hike or an overnight hike, especially if you don’t want to tackle any forest service roads].

If you’re thinking about hiking this section of the Sunshine Coast Trail, then here’s what you need to know.

Parking and trailhead

You begin and end the hike at the Saltery Bay trailhead, which is the southern terminus of the Sunshine Coast Trail. Parking is located on Rainy Day Lake Road. There’s both free parking and paid parking. The trailhead is just minutes from the Saltery Bay ferry terminal. There’s a wooden kiosk marking the start of the Sunshine Coast Trail, along with a map and signs pointing to Fairview Bay Hut.

Sunshine Coast Trail
The kiosk marks the southern terminus of the Sunshine Coast Trail
Sunshine Coast Trail
Stay right towards Fairview Bay Hut, or go left to hike straight to Rainy Day Lake

The route

The trail starts on a gravel path that heads towards sea, giving you a good view across the wharf. You then enter the forest and quickly reach a sign that reads ‘escalator’. As you might guess, the trail then heads sharply uphill, ascending through short switchbacks. Don’t be deterred – this is by the far the longest stretch of ascent you’ll have to endure!

Once you’ve reached the top of the escalator, the trail meanders through the forest and back towards the coast. Before long you’ll reach Pirate’s Cove, a rocky bluff with views across the ocean. From here you follow the coastline for a while, which is strewn with arbutus trees and sun-scorched tufts of grass.

Pirate's Cove on the Sunshine Coast Trail
Pirate’s Cove
Sunshine Coast Trail
Following the coastline to Fairview Bay

Although you aren’t scaling any mountains, the trail has enough ups and downs to keep the heart rate pumping. You’ll return to the forest, and after a short ascent will come out onto a powerline trail. It’s covered with grass and gradually ascends to a pylon. You re-enter the forest shortly after the pylon, where a sign indicates that you’re one hour from Fairview Bay Hut.

From here the trail is much the same, undulating up and down through the forest, occasionally bringing you out onto the coastline. Half an hour before the hut is another rocky bluff called Ahlstrom Point. Finally, you cross a small wooden bridge across a creek, after which the hut appears in front of you.

There are orange markers for the length of the trail, as well as signs indicating how many kilometers you’ve travelled. Navigation is very easy and it’s unlikely you’ll get lost on this section of the trail.

Fairview Bay Hut

The huts on the Sunshine Coast Trail are free to use and are maintained by a team of volunteers called the Powell River Parks and Wilderness Society (PAWS). These are rustic backcountry huts and have few facilities.

The Fairview Bay Hut is particularly pleasant, as it has windows across one side, allowing you to enjoy the view no matter what the weather. There are a couple of benches and tables downstairs. The sleeping quarters are upstairs. If you want to stay the night, you’ll need to bring your own sleeping mat and sleeping bag. The huts can get full, so it’s always wise to bring a tent along, just in case.

Fairview Bay Hut on the Sunshine Coast Trail
Fairview Bay Hut on the Sunshine Coast Trail

The other bonus of Fairview Bay Hut is that it’s in a prime seaside location. You’re just steps from the beach. When the weather’s hot, the water is the perfect temperature for a dip. The view across the ocean and the dense forest is incredibly beautiful, and you’ll likely see seals and eagles (and maybe whales if you’re really lucky!)

Fairview Bay on the Sunshine Coast Trail
The perfect spot for a dunk on a hot day

The return journey

If you are only hiking to Fairview Bay Hut, then you’ll need to return the same way you came.

Time and distance

It’s 7km from the Saltery Bay trailhead to Fairview Bay Hut. This makes a round trip of 14km. Due to the undulating nature of the trail, the outbound journey and the return journey take about the same amount of time. It took me 2.5 hours each way, going at a relaxed to moderate pace, with a few stops along the way to take photos and admire the view.

The Sunshine Coast Trail website suggests this hike will take two hours each way, which may be optimistic for some.

Make it into a loop by hiking to Rainy Day Lake Hut

If you’d like to see more of the Sunshine Coast Trail – or you just like hiking in a loop – then you can continue on to Rainy Day Lake Hut. However, you need to be aware that this will increase the distance and the amount of elevation gain.

From Fairview Bay Hut, you continue to follow the Sunshine Coast Trail northbound. You quickly begin to ascend. It’s quite steep and continues for a couple of kilometers, making it quite the cardiovascular workout. It’s only around 3km to Rainy Day Lake from Fairview Bay, but you’ll be glad to get there. The hut has a similar set up to Fairview Bay Hut, only the downstairs isn’t enclosed by walls. It’s perched high on a rocky outcrop called Hailstone Bluff. It’s just a short hop down to the lake, which has a pontoon and is a great place to go for a swim.

[Note: you can actually drive to Rainy Day Lake. See the Sunshine Coast Trail website for more details].

To return to the parking lot, you need to continue around the shore of the lake for a short distance. You’ll come across a signpost pointing you back to Saltery Bay, with the trail cutting left back into the forest. It’s about 8km from Rainy Day Lake to Saltery Bay. Keep following the orange markers. You’ll ascend some more up to a viewpoint where you can see across the Jervis Inlet. There’s then a long descent, after which you’ll reach a road that brings you back to Saltery Bay.

Navigation on this section of the trail is sometimes confusing, particularly as there are a couple of spurs and it’s not always obvious which direction to take. There’s also little phone signal.

You can do this loop as a long day hike. Or, you can turn it into a multi-day hike, staying at either (or both) huts.

Pregnant hiker holds walking poles and looks across mountains

7 Things Every Pregnant Hiker Needs

In this guest post, Samantha Jenkins, founder of maternity wear brand Mother & Nature, explains the equipment that every pregnant hiker needs.

Hiking while pregnant – things to consider

Walking is a fantastic exercise to do while you’re pregnant. It’s a low-impact, cardiovascular workout that will get your body releasing all those happy hormones (hello endorphins!). And you get the benefit of being outdoors in nature – something which is scientifically proven to boost your mood. But that’s not all: walking is free AND you can take your other children and/or dogs with you. It’s a win-win situation for everyone.

But here’s the thing, you really need to have the right equipment. This significantly improves your safety when hiking. This is always important, but all-the-more so when you’re expecting, as you don’t want to put yourself or the baby at risk. The correct kit can also make things a lot more comfortable, especially when that growing bump becomes more cumbersome. If you’re comfortable, you’re much more likely to carry on hiking – meaning you’ll continue to reap all the physical and mental benefits that come with it.

Understandably, you won’t want to spend too much money on outdoor maternity wear. But the good news is that you don’t have to! The list below only features kit that you can use during and after your pregnancy. This makes it a sound long-term investment.

Pregnant woman holds bump while standing on beach

7 things every pregnant hiker needs

1. Hiking boots

Your centre of gravity changes as your bump grows, meaning you’ll likely be a bit clumsy on your feet. Proper hiking boots can do a great deal to help this, as they’re designed for both comfort and support. Hiking boots with a high ankle design are best because they protect your ankles, helping you to avoid any mishaps on uneven ground. The tread on the bottom of hiking boots also provides better grip than trainers or other shoes, ensuring you don’t slip.

Amazingly, your feet can grow a full shoe size when you’re pregnant. If you’re in the market for a new pair of boots, be sure to get your feet measured first.

2. Water bottle and snacks

You really don’t want to become dehydrated during pregnancy because it can have an adverse impact on both you and the baby. When you’re headed out for a hike, take a good, insulated water bottle (or water bladder) with you. Hiking is thirsty work at the best of times, so you’ll need more water than you think. However, water is heavy, and you don’t necessarily want to carry gallons of the stuff. That’s why it’s a good idea to choose a hike where you can refill en route, whether that’s at a café, pub, restaurant or other safe water source.

Along with water, remember to take plenty of snacks to keep your blood sugar stable.

3. A maternity sports bra

Ladies, it’s time to get real: pregnancy hormones play havoc with your bust. That’s why a really good, non-wired maternity sports bra is a must. This will really improve your hiking experience, making all the difference to your comfort levels. There’s no need to splash the cash. You only really need one maternity sports bra. There are lots of options available, and many are designed with breastfeeding in mind. This increases the bra’s longevity, meaning it can be used for your post-natal exercising too!

4. Layers

Hiking is all about dressing in layers. This is especially necessary when you’re pregnant because your body temperature fluctuates more than normal. Hikers often talk about the ‘three-layer system’. This means wearing a base layer, preferably made out of wool or synthetic materials. Then you can throw on a fleece as your mid-layer if you get chilly. A waterproof jacket makes up your final layer, keeping the wind and rain off you. Walking trousers are also a great idea. Not only do they keep you dry and mud-free, they’ll protect your legs from scrapes and stings.

5. A sustainable hiking jacket

Speaking of clothes, lots of people make the mistake of hiking with a heavy jacket. But you’ll become hot way too quickly. Also, the fit might become an issue as you start to grow in size. Really, you want a lightweight, waterproof jacket that adapts to your body, as your pregnancy progresses. Enter the jackets from Mother & Nature! The Mother & Nature’s range has zipped side-panels that literally grow with your bump and then zip back down after the birth. This means you’ll have a year-round hiking jacket, bump or no bump.

Explore Mother & Nature’s range of sustainable maternity wear.

6. Walking poles

Walking poles have become increasingly popular amongst hikers in recent years, and with good reason. They improve balance and stability, providing you with a helping hand on both the uphill and the downhill. They have also been shown to reduce weight-bearing on your hips, knees and ankles. All of these things are incredibly beneficial during pregnancy, as not only are you more wobbly on your feet, your joints are also under greater strain.

7. Sun cream and the 10 Essentials

Finally, be sure to wear sun cream and a hat, even if it doesn’t seem like the sun’s out. Your skin is much more sensitive during pregnancy, so you’ll need to take extra measures against those damaging UV rays. Along with sun protection, don’t forget the other 10 Essentials of hiking safety which you should always take with you and each and every hike.

Woman hiking while pregnant

(Feature image photo credit: Lucas Favre)

Frozen river and mountain

What to Wear Hiking in Winter

Dressing for winter hiking is an exact science. Dress too warmly and you’ll get too hot. You’ll then sweat, which as it turns out, will only make you colder (that’s the very point of sweat, after all). But if you wear too little then you’ll be cold anyway. And guess what – you don’t want to be cold, because that’s dangerous. Instead, you want your body temperature to be just right.

What a conundrum.

I’ve been in pursuit of the perfect winter hiking wardrobe for many years now. I’ve made plenty of mistakes. I’ve worn ridiculously heavy coats. I’ve cried because my hands were so cold. I’ve had trench foot and made numerous other rookie errors. Now, however, I know what works and what doesn’t.

You’ll probably go through the same learning curve, because despite all the advice out there, it’s always relative to the situation. What’s ‘right’ and what’s ‘wrong’ very much depends on who you are and where you are in the world. Some of you will be living in a polar vortex, while others will think it’s cold at 15°c.

Ultimately, the key to winter hiking is to dress in layers, including a base layer, a mid-layer and an outer shell. This is known as the three-layer system. You can peel these layers off as required – hence the expression ‘dress like an onion’. Then you need to add a few extra accessories to keep your extremities toasty.

What to wear winter hiking

If you live in a cold, wet or snowy climate, then here’s what I suggest you wear for winter hikes.

On the top half

Let’s start with the top half of the body.


Wow, straight in there with the underwear. But seriously, if you’re wearing a sports bra/underwear, be sure to choose woollen or synthetic materials. You don’t want to wear any cotton while hiking, even if it’s your undies.

Base layer

Next up is a base layer. This is a lightweight layer which should preferably be made from merino wool or synthetic materials. I run very cold (honestly, you’ve never met someone as cold as me) which is why I actually wear two base layers – one short-sleeve and one long-sleeve. They are both snug fitting but not cut-your-circulation-off kind of tight.

You can spend a lot of money on technical base layers, and honestly, it would be money well spent. But unfortunately, that’s not a luxury we can all afford. I do perfectly well with an acrylic base layer I bought from Marks & Spencer (in the UK) and a polyester top I bought from Go Outdoors (also in the UK). I use both of them for skiing, too. The main problem with these is that they retain body odour, meaning they get quite stinky.

Base layers are categorised in terms of the weight. The heavier it is, the thicker it will be. If you’re in the market for a winter hiking base layer, I recommend a mid-weight base layer from Icebreaker. Woolx, Patagonia and Smartwool also have some great options. If you run warm or you want something more versatile that you can use year-round, get a lightweight base layer instead.


On top of your base layer, you should wear a mid-layer. This should insulate you, but it should also be breathable. You don’t want anything too heavy duty or you’ll get too hot. A fleece or a lightweight woollen jumper is ideal. As always, stay away from cotton. I wear a 100% wool jumper that I found in a thrift store.

Some people also use lightweight down jackets or vests, like the Nano Puff from Patagonia. This is great if it’s very cold and dry. However, you may get too warm. Also, down isn’t effective when it’s wet, unlike fleece which dries quickly. If you’re looking to buy, then anything rated ‘R1’ by Patagonia is a sound investment.

Your mid-layer is actually the hardest layer to get right because the amount of insulation you need fluctuates according to the air temperature and your body temperature. On the ascent, I can sometimes do without a mid-layer if it’s very mild outside. On the flip side, I can get very cold on the descent, meaning I actually need several mid-layers. That’s why you need to dress like an onion. Peel layers off (and add layers on) as needed.

Outer shell jacket

The final piece of the three-layer system for hiking is your shell jacket. You’re probably used to wearing a nice big coat when you’re out and about in winter. But this isn’t what you want for winter hiking. Instead, you need a lightweight jacket that’s waterproof and breathable. Remember, it’s your mid-layers that are keeping you warm. Your jacket’s job is to protect you from the elements, be it the rain, wind or snow.

Although it costs more money, I really recommend getting a jacket with Gore-Tex technology. This ensures that it’s waterproof AND breathable. Otherwise, you’ll get wet when it rains. You’ll also retain moisture when you sweat, making you overheat.

I wear a North Face Gore-Tex rain jacket (which is no longer in production) or the Women’s Calcite Jacket from Patagonia (which I also wear for ski touring).


You lose a lot of heat through your head, which is why it’s a good idea to wear a warm hat. This has the added benefit of keeping your ears warm, which I find tend to really suffer in cold winds. When it’s dry, I usually wear a woolly bobble hat (or beanie/toque). If it’s raining then I’ll swap this for a cap which I wear under my jacket hood. This does a good job of keeping the rain off my face.

If I want to wear my hair in a pony tail then I might ditch the hat and use a headband/rolled up buff instead. This ensures my ears stay warm.


Personally, I find it very difficult to keep my hands warm while hiking in winter. Even when the rest of me is nice and toasty, my hands are like little ice cubes. That’s why I wear two pairs of gloves. This includes some heavy-duty mittens from Marmot and a glove liner from MEC. I pack spare gloves in my backpack and a re-suable hand warmer.


If it’s really cold and windy outside, then you don’t want any part of your body to be exposed. Wind chill on your face can really hurt. Because of this, you might want a buff or balaclava to cover your neck and face.


If you’re hiking in snow, then the glare from the sun can be blinding. Consider taking a pair of sunglasses, even if it’s overcast. Conversely, if there’s a cold wind whipping around you (or a snow storm) then this can affect your eyes. If so, a pair of ski goggles provides good protection. This is reserved for extreme weather and you probably won’t encounter such elements if you’re new to winter hiking.

Woman in wet weather hiking gear walks along fallen log in snowy forest

On the bottom half

Now on to the bottom half of your body. There are lots of options when it comes to layering the bottom half of your body. I don’t always stick to the traditional three-layer system. Sometimes I just wear leggings, or leggings and soft shell pants, or leggings and rain pants. The right combination depends on how cold it is and whether or not you’re hiking in rain, mud or snow.

Base layer leggings/tights/pants

Usually, I wear winter running tights as my base layer. These are thicker than your average exercise leggings. Or I wear thermal leggings (often called thermal underwear or long johns) which I also use for skiing. You can get these in pretty much any activewear range. For top specification, take a look at midweight base layer leggings/tights from brands such as Woolx and Icebreaker. Don’t wear denim or cotton.

Soft shell pants

If it’s really cold, I’ll then wear a pair of soft shell pants over the top of my leggings. (If not, I just stick to my winter running tights). Soft shell pants are wind and water resistant, but not waterproof. Sometimes they are insulated and/or fleece lined. Ideally, they will have zippered vents so you can cool down without having to take anything off.

If you’re in to backcountry skiing or splitboarding, then you can re-purpose your touring pants/bibs for winter hiking. I use a pair of lightweight hiking pants because I prefer to have a more dynamic range of movement, rather than be too bulky or hot. More technical options are available from brands such as Fjallraven, Patagonia and Arc’teryx.

Hard shell pants/rain pants

Soft shell pants aren’t normally waterproof, which is why you might also want a pair of hard shell pants or rain pants. I only wear rain pants (from MEC) if the heavens open because otherwise I find them to be too sweaty. The rest of the time they live in my backpack.

Winter hiking socks

Specialist hiking socks are always preferable over ‘normal’ socks because they are designed to wick away moisture and limit blisters. Winter hiking socks are that little bit thicker for added warmth. I’ve recently been testing out some waterproof socks from Seal Skinz. Wool socks from Icebreaker, Smartwool and Darn Tough are also good options.

Hiking boots

You can get hiking boots specifically designed for winter. These have more insulation. However, any hiking boot that is waterproof, has good traction and ankle support will do. I use La Sportiva Trango TRK GTX hiking boots year-round.

Related: Kit Review – La Sportiva Trango TRK GTX hiking boots


Mud, snow and water can all spill over the top of your hiking boots and get your socks wet. The result will be cold, soggy feet. Gaiters stop this from happening, making them a useful hiking tool, especially in the winter.

Woman in blue coat and bobble hat stands in deep snow

What else to pack

The above is what I’d expect to be wearing when I arrive at the trailhead, aside from gaiters/ski goggles which are dependent on the conditions. I will also have:

  • Extra mid-layers that I can add/remove when I get too cold/hot
  • A down jacket that I wear underneath my shell jacket when I stop for a break. I might also wear it if I’m not generating much body heat – for example, on the descent
  • Extra socks and gloves
  • The 10 Essentials for hiking safety
  • Micro-spikes and snowshoes, if hiking in ice or snow
  • A shovel, probe and transceiver, if hiking in avalanche terrain

Your backpack

Because you need so much extra stuff when hiking in winter, you’ll probably need a larger backpack than you would for summer day hikes. I use the Norrøna Lyngen 35L ski touring pack (which, as you might guess, I also use for ski touring).

Related: Kit Review – Norrøna Lyngen 35L ski touring pack.

What else do you need to know?

When it comes to dressing for winter hikes, there are a few important things to remember.

Be bold, start cold

The first is to ‘be bold, start cold’. In other words, you should be slightly cold at the start of the trailhead. Don’t worry, you’ll soon warm up.

Act quickly if you’re too hot or too cold

If you are too hot or too cold, take action straightaway. Don’t wait until you’re really freezing or you’re sweating profusely. Both things will work against you. Stop immediately and add/remove layers as needed, even if that means stopping your group.

Add layers as soon as you stop for a break

If you break for lunch, to admire the view or simply for a rest, put more layers on right away. Even if you feel hot, you will cool down incredibly quickly. Pre-empt this by putting on a down jacket or more mid-layers.

Keep moving but don’t sweat it

If you’ve stopped and you start to shiver, the best thing is to get moving again. Having said that, you don’t want to adopt such a quick pace that you start to sweat.

Cotton is rotten

I’ve mentioned this a few times, but never wear cotton while hiking. Hikers practically chant the mantra ‘cotton is rotten’. This is because if it gets wet, it stays wet (therefore making you cold). Choose wool or synthetic materials. Generally, synthetic clothing is cheaper but is worse for the environment, as it’s essentially plastic. Wool garments are naturally odour resistant.

Related: Top Tips for Winter Hiking

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Winter snowshoeing

Top Tips for Winter Hiking

Hiking can absolutely be a year-round activity. However, hiking in winter is a little different to hiking in summer. It’s cold and dark. There are more hazards. And having the right gear can make the difference between a great day out and a downright miserable experience.

If you’re hoping to hit the trails this winter, here are some top tips to keep you safe and warm.

Check the trail conditions

If you’re planning a hike, then you probably have an objective in mind. Do some research to find out what the trail conditions are like.

For recent events, find the nearest mountain listed on mountain-forecast.com and cross-reference the week’s weather with your intended destination. If the hike is in the vicinity of a ski resort, check snow-forecast.com instead. The resort might also have webcams you can check. Then take a look at local hiking forums and social media. Reach out to anyone who’s recently been in the area and ask them questions – was there snow on the trail? Was it horrendously muddy? How’s the access road? Hikers are a friendly bunch and will be more than happy to share information with you.

Let the conditions guide your decision-making. If the trail is likely to present difficulties – such as snow, ice or swollen waterways – then ask yourself if you’re equipped to deal with those kinds of conditions. If not, explore alternative options instead.

Check the weather and time of sunrise/sunset

Checking the weather forecast on the day of your hike is good practice, no matter what month it is. But it’s particularly important during the winter months when small temperature drops can make the difference between hiking in the rain and hiking in a blizzard.

If the weather is less than favourable, don’t be afraid to shelve your plans for another day. Remember, heavy rains can cause rivers to swell, low visibility can make navigation impossible, high winds can cause trees to fall and unstable loading in avalanche terrain. If the weather is going to compromise your safety, don’t go.

Also pay close attention to the number of daylight hours you have available. When checking the forecast, take note of when the sun sets. You can of course hike in the dark if you want (provided you have a sufficient light source), but don’t let it catch you out. You might prefer to start early and finish early. That way, you can be home safe and sound by the time darkness falls.

Woman and dog stand by nearly frozen lake
First snowfall of the season

Wear and carry layers – and lots of them!

Once you’re on the trails, the key is to dress in layers. Actually, this applies year-round, but all the more so in winter when you’ll quickly switch between hot and cold.

In the past, I’d arrive at the trailhead shivering and put all my layers on. Then I’d hike for about five minutes, be sweltering hot and have to take them all off again. I’ve finally learned that I’ll quickly warm up once I get moving. I’ve also learned that it’s bad to overheat while hiking in the winter. Someone once said to me: “you sweat; you die.” This is slightly alarmist, but I get the point. If you start sweating, that moisture will cool on your skin. When you stop, you’ll suddenly be extremely cold.

So, dress in layers. During the hike, remove and add layers as needed. If you’re getting hot, stop and peel some clothes off. If you’re getting cold, stop and add more. It can be tempting to ignore your body temperature and carry on hiking. However, you either risk over-heating – meaning you’ll get sweaty and then eventually become very cold. Or you risk a steady descent into mild hypothermia, from which it can be very difficult to warm up from. Don’t worry about stopping your group so you can layer/un-layer. Chances are, everyone else will want to do the same thing.

On the top, you’ll want a base layer which wicks sweat away. Don’t wear cotton – it retains moisture and will make you colder in the long-run. Then you’ll want a mid-layer, which is something a little warmer like a fleece. Then you’ll want a shell jacket for your outer layer. A waterproof jacket is ideal because it prevents wind chill and keeps you dry. When you stop (or if you get cold), whip out a down jacket and some additional mid-layers to keep you toasty. On your lower half, you’ll want moisture wicking tights/leggings and some waterproof trousers (pants) on top. You can remove the latter if you get hot or conditions are dry.

You should also take a warm hat, gloves and a buff to protect your face from wind chill. I like to take spare gloves and socks, just in case the pair I’m wearing get wet or I’m really, really cold. Take more clothes than you think you need – even if that means taking a bigger bag than you normally would on a day hike.

Top tip – when you stop for lunch or to admire the view, put your warmer layers on immediately! You might feel fine to begin with but you’ll cool down very quickly. Stave off the cold by layering up straightaway.

Related: What to Wear Hiking in Winter

Wear the right footwear

You can get away with hiking in trainers in the summer. Not so in the winter. You’ll absolutely need waterproof hiking boots. They should be high-cut, meaning they wrap around your ankle. They should also have aggressive lugs which allow for better traction in wet, slippery conditions. If it’s going to be really cold, you can invest in a pair of insulated hiking boots.

Synthetic or wool socks will help keep your feet dry. Gaiters can also be helpful if you’re going to be wading through mud, slush or snow.

Carry micro spikes and snowshoes

If the trail is snow-covered, you’ll either need micro spikes, snowshoes or both. Lots of people automatically reach for snowshoes when they’re hiking in snow. However, snowshoes are only useful for floating in deep snow. They provide a greater surface area so prevent you from sinking. But they don’t have very good grip. If the trail is full of compressed, icy snow, then micro spikes are better. If it’s steep, then you might need crampons.

It’s very easy to slip and hurt yourself in winter conditions. In fact, this is a common cause of winter hiking accidents. Even the first snowfall of the season can turn the trail into an ice rink. If you don’t want to be sliding down on your backside, be sure to carry micro spikes and/or snowshoes with you. Micro spikes can be easily stashed in your bag when you don’t need them, while snowshoes can be lashed onto the outside of your rucksack.

Keep eating and drinking

You might not feel very hungry or thirsty while hiking in winter, yet it’s vital that you keep eating and drinking.

You actually burn more calories while hiking in winter because your body is working harder to keep warm. Stay fuelled by guzzling high-energy snacks at regular intervals. Some foods become solid at low temperatures, so things like a traditional sandwich might not be too palatable. Hunks of hard cheese and dark chocolate work well. I also like to take a flask of hot soup to glug at lunchtime.

Stay hydrated by taking regular sips of water. You might not sweat as much as you do when hiking in summer, but you’re still losing moisture. The tubes on hydration bladders often freeze in cold weather. You can combat this by filling your bladder with warm water and sipping on it frequently throughout the day. You can also try an insulated tube cover, or simply switch to insulated bottles instead.

Prepare for the unexpected

I once read that when even if you’re planning on a day hike, you should be prepared for an overnight hike. This is all the more pertinent in winter when you have fewer daylight hours to get yourself out of a jam.

Always carry the 10 Essentials with you. Then, think like a catastrophist and pack extra of everything. This includes extra layers, food, lights and batteries or chargers for electronics (which often die in cold weather!) Take a bivvy bag just in case you end up camping overnight. Stick some handwarmers in your bag which will save your fingers if you get really cold. And always leave a trip plan with a friend or family member.

Get avalanche safety training

If you plan on venturing into avalanche terrain, then you need to attend an Avalanche Skills Training (AST) course. This gives you the knowledge required to identify avalanche hazards and minimise the risks. You and every member of your party will need to carry an avalanche receiver, probe and shovel – and know how to use them!

It’s a common misconception that only skiers and snowboarders get caught in avalanches. Actually, snowshoers and winter hikers are frequently killed or injured in the mountains, be it in avalanches or collapsed cornices. Obviously, it all depends on where you’re hiking. If you’re trudging across the Mendip Hills in England, you don’t need to know the meaning of surface hoar. But if you’re headed to snowy peaks, it could be crucial. If you’re not sure, book yourself onto a course anyway. You’ll learn a bunch of interesting (and potentially life-saving) information and maybe even make some new hiking buddies in the process.

If you have any other tips for winter hiking then I’d love to hear them!

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Golden larches in Manning Provincial Park

Frosty Mountain Golden Larches Hike

See the golden larches in Manning Provincial Park by hiking the Frosty Mountain trail in late September or early October.

What are the golden larches?

As the season shifts from summer to autumn, there’s one question on every hiker’s mind: have the larches turned golden yet? If you’re wondering what all the hype is about, then let me explain.

You’ve heard of coniferous trees, right? They have needle-like leaves which stay put year-round. Then there are deciduous trees. They turn a riot of colours before shedding their leaves for the season. Well, larches are conifers – but unusually, they also lose their needles. Cool eh?

The result is that for a few precious weeks each year, larch trees around the world turn a beautiful golden colour. Arrive too early and they’ll still be green. Get there too late and the needles will already have dropped, leaving the trees bald until spring.

Just like Goldilocks and her porridge, you’ve got to get it just right.

Golden larches in Manning Provincial Park
Sub-alpine larches turn golden in late September/early October

Where can you see the golden larches?

To get the real wow factor, you’re looking for the sub-alpine larch, known in Latin as the larix lyallii. These are found growing at high elevations where the temperatures are low and the soil is rocky. Stands of sub-alpine larches can be found across Canada and the USA, particularly in the Rockies and the Northern Cascades.

Popular places to see the golden larches include:

  • The Sentinel Pass in Banff National Park, Alberta
  • Chester Lake in Kananaskis Country, Alberta
  • Cathedral Provincial Park, British Columbia
  • Manning Provincial Park, British Columbia
  • Maple Pass Loop, Washington State
  • Cutthroat Pass, Washington State

Golden larches near Vancouver

If you live near Vancouver – and crossing the border isn’t an option (hello Covid) – then the best place to see the golden larches is in Manning Provincial Park.

But here’s the catch: these larches grow high up the side of a mountain. You can’t see them from your car, so you won’t be doing a drive-by photo shoot. Instead, you need to dust off the hiking boots and follow the trail up to Frosty Mountain.

You don’t have to reach the summit of Frosty Mountain, which stands at a considerable 2,408m. In fact, the golden larches plateau is around 2km below the peak. The hike to the plateau is certainly uphill, with approximately 800m elevation gain. But it’s manageable for the intermediate hiker, as the trail ascends gradually during a long series of switchbacks.

Golden larches in Manning Provincial Park
Manning Provincial Park in early October

When to see the golden larches in Manning Provincial Park

The Frosty Mountain hike is typically snow-free from mid-July to early October. To catch the larches at their most vibrant, visit in late September to early October. I went in the first weekend of October and was met with a dazzling array of golden hues.

The weather in late September and early October is unpredictable. The larches are extremely high up and it’s very possible that there will be snow on the ground. Take warm layers and micro-spikes for your hiking boots. Oh, and always carry the 10 Essentials!

Top tip – these glorious larches turn golden for a short period, meaning the trail is very busy at weekends during late September/early October. If possible, time your trip for a week-day.

Frosty Mountain hike quick facts

  • Distance: 22km round trip to Frosty Mountain, or 18km to the larches plateau
  • Start: from the Lightening Lake day-use area in Manning Provincial Park
  • Time needed: between six and nine hours, depending on your speed and whether you go all the way to the summit
  • Dogs: are allowed on leash
  • Elevation gain: 1,150m to the summit, 800m to the larch plateau
  • Camping: is available if you want to do this as an overnight trip. Frosty Creek Wilderness Campsite is around the 7km mark.
  • Alternative routes: it is also possible to reach Frosty Mountain from the Windy Joe trail. Additionally, you can do a loop trail incorporating Lightening Lake, Frosty Mountain and Windy Joe. BC Parks has more information on the options available.
  • The larches in Manning Park: are, according to John Baldwin in Exploring the Coast Mountains on Skis, ‘up to 2,000 years old and are some of the oldest trees in Canada’. Woah.
Manning Provincial Park
It’s thought that these are the oldest trees in Canada!

Hiking the Frosty Mountain trail

The most popular way to see the golden larches in Manning Provincial Park is to hike the Frosty Mountain Trail. This is the route I’ll describe here.

Travel directions

From Vancouver, head east-bound along Highway #1. After Hope, stay in the right-hand lane as it merges into Highway #3. Turn right immediately after Manning Park Resort onto Gibson Pass Road. There’s a signpost for Gibson Pass ski area. After you’ve made the right-hand turn, you’ll see a sign for Lightening Lake. Continue until you reach a fork in the road. Take the left-hand fork towards the Lightening Lake day-use area. Park here.

The route

Start at the Lightening Lake day-use area. If you’re looking at the lake with the parking lot behind you, head left (east) around the lake, keeping the water on your right-hand side. Cross the dam and you’ll see a trail marker for ‘Frosty Mountain trail’.

The trail immediately enters the forest. From now you can expect around 6km of switchbacks. The trail isn’t technical and ascends gradually. However, it’s very narrow which makes overtaking difficult. Bottlenecks can form on busy days, especially when there’s a two-way flow of traffic.

Every now and then the forest opens up and you’ll get a glimpse of Lightening Lake below you and Mount Hozameen in the distance. Eventually the switchbacks end and the trails levels off. You’ll undulate up and down for another 1km or so, after which you’ll reach Frosty Creek Campsite. There’s an emergency shelter, an outhouse and a very small creek.

Manning Provincial Park
Glimpses of Lightening Lake and Mount Hozemeen along the Frosty Mountain trail

Pass through the campsite and over the creek. Now the trail begins to climb again, but it’s only 0.5km until you get to the larch grove, so keep going! Soon you reach a plaque that tells you about larch trees. Finally, you’ll get your first glimpse of the famed golden larches. Continue walking along the trail, which becomes relatively flat. You’ll find larches all around you for around 1km, set against the stunning backdrop of the Northern Cascades.

Golden larches Manning Provincial Park
The golden larches plateau

Soon the trail starts to climb once again. Then, the tree line abruptly comes to an end and you’re faced with a scree field. If you don’t want to continue to Frosty Mountain summit, this is the end of your hike. Turn around and return the way you came, taking time to appreciate the golden larches from an alternative perspective.

If you want to keep going, then be prepared for the difficulty rating to increase. Hike up through the scree field, following the pink dots painted on the stones. It’s steep and the scree is loose, so take care.

Manning Provincial Park
The scree field to the ridge. You can see the summit in the distance

Once you’re at the ridge, turn right and walk along the ridgeline. It remains rocky and the altitude can make it hard going. Keep following the ridge until you reach the east summit.

Manning Provincial Park
Walking along the ridge towards Frosty Mountain

Once you arrive, you can congratulate yourself: you are standing on the highest mountain in Manning Provincial Park!

Take your time to soak up the incredible views. To the south is the Cascade Range in the USA, and to the north is a sweeping panorama of Manning Provincial Park in all its glory. Whichever way you look, there’s layer upon layer of mountains.

Manning Provincial Park
Views from the top of Frosty Moutain in Manning Provincial Park

And there you have it: your complete guide to hiking the golden larches in Manning Provincial Park.

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Howe Sound Crest Trail

Hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Spanning from Cypress Bowl to Porteau Cove, the Howe Sound Crest Trail is one of THE iconic hikes near Vancouver. At 29km long, it’s like a greatest hits list of local peaks, allowing the hiker to bag them all in one fell swoop.

OK, maybe not them all, but your legs will carry you up and over St Mark’s Summit, Mount Unnecessary, The Lions, James Peak, David Peak and, if you want, Brunswick Mountain. Then you’ll skirt round Brunswick Lake, Hanover Lake and Deeks Lake. It’s quite the sightseeing tour. Did I mention the views? They’re spectacular.

If you’re thinking about hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail (HSCT), here’s what you need to know.

Howe Sound Crest Trail quick facts

  • Distance – 29km, not including a detour to Brunswick Mountain.
  • Rating – very difficult
  • When to hike it – late summer to early autumn, preferably on a clear day when you can enjoy the views!
  • Time needed – two days ideally. Some advanced trail runners tackle it in one day.
  • Logistics – this is a point to point hike. You’ll need to leave a car at either end, or get someone to pick you up/drop you off.
  • Start/end – most people hike the trail from south to north. This mean you’d start at Cypress Bowl (Cypress Mountain Resort) and end at Porteau Road.
  • Camping – wilderness camping is available along the trail. Preferred sites are Magnesia Meadows (14.5km from Cypress), Brunswick Lake (19km from Cypress) and Deeks Lake (22km from Cypress). There are no outhouses, tent pads or bear caches.
  • Water – if you are hiking the trail from south to north, water is scant until you reach Magnesia Meadows. From thereon, you’re never too far from a water source. Boiling or treating drinking water is recommended.
  • Campfires – are not allowed.
  • Dogs – are allowed on leash. However, the section between Mount Unnecessary and Magnesia Meadows is definitely not dog-friendly. There are cables, ropes and steep step-downs. Leave the fur-baby at home.
  • Shorter hikes – you can exit the trail early if you want a shorter hike. Rather than going all the way to Porteau Cove, head down to Lions Bay via the Lions Binkert Trail or the Brunswick Mountain Trail.

There’s some important safety information tucked into this list. For the sake of clarity, I’m going to expand on a few points.

Honestly, it’s very difficult

I hiked the Howe Sound Crest Trail from south to north, stopping at Magnesia Meadows overnight. Honestly, the first day kicked my butt. I don’t want to sound too big for my (hiking) boots, but I’ve done trails rated as difficult before and thought they weren’t so bad. But this was a different story. The first half of the trail sees you scaling up and down various peaks. It’s steep, not only going up, but going down too. There are ropes, cables, boulders, scrambles and sheer drops. The terrain is technical and progress is often slow-going. When you’ve got an overnight pack on, it makes it all the more difficult.

Be warned: the Howe Sound Crest Trail is not for beginners, or indeed intermediate hikers. It’s hard. For fit and experienced hikers, this is a challenging and highly rewarding experience. Be prepared and be sure to carry the 10 essentials with you.

This is a late summer/early autumn hike only

Snow persists on the HSCT well into summer. It may balmy down in the city in June, but up at 1,500m you’ll find yourself knee-deep in the white stuff. “I’m not deterred by a bit of snow”, you might think. That’s all well and good, but the terrain of the Howe Sound Crest Trail means that you’d need avalanche training and mountaineering skills to traverse it safely. There’s a particularly sketchy col in between The Lions which can be covered in a thick slab of compact snow, even when everything else is bone dry. Slip here and you’d promptly slide 50 feet into a boulder field.

You may be itching to tick this one off your bucket list, but be patient and wait for the right conditions. The snow pack changes every year, so it’s impossible to say exactly when the Howe Sound Crest Trail is hike-able. Usually, you’ll be looking from late July to early October.

Howe Sound Crest Trail
Looking across to Enchantment Lake

How long does it take?

If you hike the Howe Sound Crest Trail, you’ll no doubt see trail runners tackling the length of it in one day. You could, in theory, hike the HSCT in one day too. However, you would need to start very early and travel very quickly to avoid being caught out by nightfall. This would be a shame, as the Howe Sound Crest Trail is beautiful. You’ll want to take your time – and hike in daylight – to fully appreciate the views.

So, from a safety perspective, and for your own enjoyment, this is best done as an overnight hike. One night will suffice, but if you really want to savour the scenery, you could stay for two nights.

I’m always wary of disclosing how long a hike has taken me, as everyone’s abilities are different. To give you an idea, we were hiking for nine hours each day. The first day included two short rest stops. The 4km between The Lions and Magnesia Meadows took three hours alone due to the difficulty of the terrain. The second day was more leisurely and included a detour to Brunswick Mountain and multiple stops for lunch and lake swimming.

Howe Sound Crest Trail
Stunning scenery along the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Parking and logistics

This is a point to point hike, meaning a bit of planning is required in terms of logistics. Ideally, your group will have two cars. On the morning of your hike (or the evening before) you can drop one car at your end destination. You can then all pile into the remaining car and drive to your start point. That way, when you finish your hike, you’ll have a car waiting for you. You can collect the other car on your way home.

I didn’t have two cars, so instead dropped my car at Porteau Cove the evening before the hike. My boyfriend collected me in an Evo. In the morning, a friend picked us up and dropped us at Cypress Mountain Resort, where we started our hike.

There is a large parking lot at Cypress Mountain. To save your legs, you’ll want to park as close to the ski lodge as possible. The address is Cypress Mountain, 6000 Cypress Bowl Road, West Vancouver, BC V7V 3N9. Take exit #8 off Highway 1. At the northerly end, you need to park at Porteau Road parking lot. Follow Highway 99 and exit at Porteau Road. The parking lot can be found on the east-side of the highway, up a short hill.

Hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail – the route

Most people opt to hike the Howe Sound Crest Trail from Cypress to Porteau Cove because the elevation gain is significantly shorter. If you, too, are stomping in this direction, then here’s what you’ll find.

St Mark’s Summit – approx. 5.5km from Cypress

The first hurdle to overcome on the Howe Sound Crest Trail is St Mark’s Summit. From Cypress Mountain Resort, there are plenty of maps and signposts towards the Howe Sound Crest Trail. You can take either the east or west access trail – you’ll end up in the same place. You can veer off the trail to the Bowen Lookout if you want. Otherwise, continue to follow signs for the Howe Sound Crest Trail. As you near the top there’s a series of steep switchbacks. Afterwards, the gradient starts to level out and the trail can be muddy. Soon afterwards, you’ll come to the summit. This is your first real chance to enjoy the stunning views across the Howe Sound.

The hike to St Mark’s Summit is a popular one. From here, the trail is quieter with fewer signposts. Be sure to look out for orange markers.

Mount Unnecessary, north and south peaks – approx. 7km from Cypress

Follow the trail round to the left where there’s a steep drop down the back side of St Mark’s Summit, only to be followed by a taxing ascent through the forest. This section is challenging with a heavy pack on and there are lots of tree roots to haul yourself over. You’ll soon appreciate why it’s called Mount Unnecessary, as you’ll wish this mountain-shaped obstacle wasn’t standing in between you and The Lions.

Finally, you pop out of the treeline and come to a rocky ridge. Follow this and you’ll reach the south peak of Mount Unnecessary, followed by the north peak. There are supposedly incredible views from this vantage point, which at the north peak stands at 1,542m. I say supposedly, because unfortunately when I went, we were shrouded in clouds. Well, you can’t plan the weather.

Woman walks along snowy rocky ridge
The ridge leading to Mount Unnecessary

The Lions – approx. 10.2km from Cypress

From the north peak of Mount Unnecessary, you scramble down some steep rocks with the help of a rope. From here, follow the trail towards The Lions. You’ll come to a rocky slope, at the top of which you’ll see the Search and Rescue Cache. Follow the trail upwards. It can be difficult to navigate this section, but some of the rocks have faded orange paint on. Continue to follow the ridge crest until you come to the base of the West Lion.

Experienced scramblers and climbers may choose to drop their packs here and climb up the West Lion. I’ve not done it myself but I know others who have. They report that it’s a no-fall zone – so it’s best left to those who know what they’re doing.

James Peak

At this point, things step up a notch in terms of fear factor. You’ll drop downwards slightly and follow the trail across the col between the West and East Lions. This is the sketchy section I mentioned previously which is often covered in snow. The trail traverses around the East Lion and is very narrow and exposed. You’ll then ascend upwards, rounding some small peaks – don’t be fooled, this isn’t James Peak!

Instead, you need to descend steeply around the base of Thomas Peak, where you’ll come to a boulder field. This can be covered in snow, making the trail difficult to follow – keep an eye on those orange trail markers. If you’re looking at the boulder field, you need to stay high, keeping to the left.

Woman traverses snowy boulder field
Crossing the boulder field

After a couple of hundred metres there’s an exit that takes you back into the forest. This area is known as Enchantment Pass. Soon it becomes incredibly steep and exposed as you climb the ridge to James Peak. There’s a chain rope to help you.

Woman scrambles up mountainside
Scrambling up the side of James Peak with the help of a chain rope

David’s Peak

Once you’ve enjoyed yet more incredible views, it’s time to descend from James Peak. The terrain becomes more open and meadow-like, but the respite doesn’t last long as there’s one more peak to summit – David’s Peak. Once again, this is a steep climb, followed by a steep descent the other side. By now you’re in the forest and it’s a matter of climbing up and over trees roots.

Magnesia Meadows – approx. 14.5km from Cypress

Once you’re descending David’s Peak, you know there’s not far to go until Magnesia Meadows. However, the going can be slow down the backside of David’s Peak. Once at the bottom, there’s an agonising incline up an old logging road. This section is open, grassy and full of berries – making it a hot-spot for bears. Keep grinding away until you reach a junction. Turn right and you’ll see the Magnesia Meadows emergency shelter in the distance.

Howe Sound Crest Trail
Hiking in to Magnesia Meadows – the red emergency shelter is in the distance

This is a gorgeous place to camp overnight. The views of the Howe Sound are framed by Mount Harvey on your left and the forest on your right. There’s a running stream for water and you can take refuge in the emergency shelter if needed. There’s no outhouse or bear caches, so bring a trowel and bear bag for your food.

Howe Sound Crest Trail
Camping at Magnesia Meadows

Brunswick Mountain – optional

From Magnesia Meadows, the trail continues gently upwards past the emergency shelter and into the trees. The terrain is much more manageable from here and you will cover the remaining distance much faster.

Howe Sound Crest Trail
Views across the Howe Sound

However, you can extend your hike if you want by taking a detour up to Brunswick Mountain. If so, watch out for the trail marker on your right (around 2km from Magnesia Meadows). Stash your bags and continue up the Brunswick Mountain Trail. It’s a scramble to the top but you’ll be treated to incredible views. Return to your bags and re-join the Howe Sound Crest Trail.

Brunswick Mountain
Brunswick Mountain

Brunswick Lake – approx. 19km from Cypress

Back on the Howe Sound Crest Trail, the gradient remains fairly level. Then, you’ll start to drop steadily downwards. This section is full of pretty meadows with tarns. You’ll come to the emergency shelter above Brunswick Lake before descending further to the lake itself.

Howe Sound Crest Trail
The emergency shelter sits just above the lake

The lake is a brilliant blue colour and very cold, as you’ll soon find out when you take your shoes and socks off to wade across to the other side. Take care – the underwater stones are slippery and uneven. I saw one hiker in front of me fall right in. I was glad to have my sandals with me!

This is another great spot to camp, or at least to stop for a sandwich and a swim.

Brunswick Lake
Brunswick Lake

Deeks Lake – approx. 22km from Cypress

From here, a creek runs all the way to Deeks Lake. The trail runs parallel to it. You’ll pass by a waterfall and Hanover Lake, which like Brunswick Lake is bright blue in colour. There are some more creek crossings, so you’ll be taking your socks and shoes off a couple more times. Otherwise, the trail is fairly easy. It undulates up and down with a few rocky sections, plus a slippery section near the waterfall.

When you get your first glimpse of Deeks Lake you’ll start to traverse around the water’s edge. There’s a short uphill followed by a short downhill, after which you’ll come to a log jam across the lake. Cross over here to the other side. There are a few camping spots, and you’ll probably be greeted by day trippers who have hiked up to the lake for a swim. Speaking of which, this is good place to have a dunk and a final pitstop before the long descent to the car.

Woman swims in alpine lake
Deeks Lake

Porteau Cove Road parking lot – approx. 29km from Cypress

Once you set off from Deeks Lake, you are firmly on the home stretch. It’s a long way downhill from here and your knees may start to get creaky. Down you’ll go, past a waterfall, through the forest and out onto a (boring) logging road.

Due to logging activity, there is currently a detour at the end of the trail. This brings you out below the parking lot. Ordinarily, you would continue down the logging road until you reach a yellow gate. The Porteau Road parking lot is just beyond it.

Related: Best Hikes on Vancouver’s North Shore

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Woman stares out to sea with red tent in foreground

Hiking the Juan de Fuca Trail

The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is a 47km hiking trail located on the west coast of Vancouver Island. If you’re thinking about hiking it, here’s what you need to know.

Shorter hikes

You can access the Juan de Fuca trail at four different trailheads – Botanical Beach, Parkinson Creek, Sombrio Beach and China Beach. If you’re looking for a day hike, you can park at any of these locations and explore a section of the trail as an out-an-back hike. If you prefer not to turn back on yourself, you could always shuttle cars or catch the West Coast Trail Express back to your vehicle.

For a kids-friendly option, park at China Beach and walk the 2km down to Mystic Beach. To make it longer, carry on to Bear Beach, which is another 7km from Mystic Beach. For something longer still, start at Sombrio Beach and walk all the way to Botanical Beach. From there, get a friend to drive you back to Sombrio or reserve a spot on the West Coast Trail Express from Port Renfrew – just make sure you get to the bus on time!

Bear Beach

Hiking the whole trail

If you want to complete the whole trail, you can do so in one day as a trail run, or as a multi-day hike. The number of days you need is entirely up to you. If you travel quickly, you could do it over two days, spending the night at either Sombrio Beach or Chin Beach. However, this will be a push for many. Also, it would be a shame to rush your way through this beautiful corner of the world.

I hiked it over three nights and four days. I front-loaded the distance, with a long first day followed by three fairly relaxing days. This gave me more beach-chilling time – always a good thing! It also gave me a day each to hike the most difficult sections.

Man lies on beach log next to campfire
Sometimes it’s good to relax!

Camping on the Juan de Fuca trail

There are six campsites to choose from along the way. No reservations are needed. At each you’ll find bear caches and outhouses. You don’t need a permit to hike the trail, but the campsites cost $10 per night, per person. You can pay online before you go, or take cash and use the self-registration envelopes when you’re there.

The trail is open year-round and can be hiked in either direction. If you hike from north to south, the starting point is Botanical Beach (near Port Renfrew) and the end is China Beach (near Jordan River). If you’re going in this direction, you will reach the campsites in the following order –

  • Payzant Creek
  • Little Kuitshe
  • Sombrio Beach
  • Chin Beach
  • Bear Beach
  • Mystic Beach

Payzant Creek and Little Kuitshe campsites are in the forest, so can get muddy. Sombrio Beach and Mystic Beach campsites are often busy, as they are readily accessed from the road, making them popular with non-hikers. Chin Beach can also fill up quickly. Because the campsites are first come, first serve, it’s a good idea to leave early in the morning to bag the best spots.

What’s the trail like?

As you might expect from a coastal hike, the trail is undulating. Most of the flat sections are on the beaches. You may have heard of (or even hiked) the Juan de Fuca’s more famous neighbour, the West Coast Trail. While the West Coast Trail is known for its boardwalks and ladders, the Juan de Fuca trail is known for its technical terrain and relentless elevation change.

Hiking through the forest
And along the beaches

On the trail map, you’ll see that some sections are classed as ‘moderate’, others as either ‘difficult’ or ‘most difficult’. The most difficult section requires you to traverse up and down steep ravines, which can be tiring, especially with a heavy pack on. Thankfully it was fairly dry while I was there, but no doubt it could get very slippery in bad weather. Which brings me on to my next point…

The Juan de Fuca trail is very wet, partly thanks to the number of creeks which pass through it, and partly thanks to its location on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Even at the end of summer there were deep sections of mud. Wet weather gear is a must and gaiters are recommended. The creeks mean you can refill your water pouches whenever you need, although the water should be treated or boiled before drinking.

Here’s how I hiked the Juan de Fuca trail

My boyfriend and I hiked the Juan de Fuca trail at the end of August, opting to go from north to south. Here’s how it went down…

Day 1 – Port Renfrew to Sombrio Beach – 20kms

After sleeping in our car at the Jordan River Regional Park Campground for a night, we got up early and moved the car to the China Beach day use parking lot. Be sure to remove your valuables because break-ins have been known.

I’d reserved a space on the West Coast Trail Express, so waited by the highway for it to arrive at around 8am. I didn’t think it was going to stop, but in fact, it pulls into a rest stop a little further up the road, on the far side of the highway.

After about an hour we reached Port Renfrew. We got off the bus and hiked 2km up the road to the Botanical Beach trailhead, which is the start (or end) of the Juan de Fuca trail. This is a bit of a nuisance, but it’s as close as you can get in the bus. You might want to hitch a lift!

Shortly before Payzant Creek there’s a sign to Providence Cove. This is a lovely spot to have lunch and a swim.

Two people making tea on a portable stove on a stone beach
Taking a lunch break at Providence Cove on the Juan de Fuca trail

We had planned to spend the first night at Little Kuitshe, but made good progress so continued on to Sombrio Beach. This is a long first day at over 20kms, but it made the remaining days much more leisurely.

Tent pitched on empty stone beach
Camping at Sombrio Beach

Day 2 – Sombrio Beach to Chin Beach – 8kms

After sheltering from the rain in the morning, we started late and reached our next destination – Chin Beach – in the middle of the afternoon. The delay also meant we caught the tail-end of high tide at Chin Beach, so had to don our sandals and wade through the shallow ocean. Everyone else waited on a rocky outcrop, but I was glad we carried on because by the time we’d put up the tent the campground was full. Better to arrive early on busy weekends!

Day 3 – Chin Beach to Bear Beach – 12kms

On day three we hiked as far as Bear Beach, which was my favourite campground. It’s a long beach with sites at both the northern and southern end. In my opinion, the southerly end is better. This is the most difficult section of the hike.

Man stares out to sea
Camping at Bear Beach

Day 4 – Bear Beach to China Beach – 9kms

On the final day we hiked back to the car at the China Beach day use parking lot, although not before a final dunk in the ocean at Mystic Beach. I was glad to finish at my car, rather than worrying about making the bus on time.

Woman swims in sea
Swimming at Mystic Beach

If you’re hiking it in this direction, I would say this is a fairly standard itinerary, as we often saw the same faces at each campground.

What you need to know before you go

If you’re planning on hiking the Juan de Fuca trail, here’s what you need to know before you go –

  • If you don’t have two cars to shuttle then you can book the West Coast Trail Express. It can pick you up at Victoria, Sooke, China Beach, Sombrio Beach, Parkinson Creek or Port Renfrew
  • You don’t need to reserve anything other than the West Coast Trail Express (if using)
  • You don’t need a permit but the campsites are $10 per person, per night
  • Some campsites – particularly Chin Beach and Mystic Beach – fill up quickly, so leave early in the morning to get the best spot
  • Remember to camp above the tideline
  • Certain sections of the trail are cut off at high tide – check the tide times and plan accordingly
  • There are lots of bears in the area – be bear aware
  • The trail is very well-marked and has km markers along the way
  • There is no phone reception in the area
  • Dogs are allowed on the trail
  • It can get very muddy so gaiters are recommended (but not essential)
  • You don’t need to take much water as you can fill up along the way. The water must be boiled or treated before drinking

My thoughts on hiking the Juan de Fuca trail

If you want to try a multi-day thru-hike, the Juan de Fuca trail is a great place to start. At 47kms, the trail isn’t overwhelmingly long, but it still presents challenges. Although there isn’t any cell reception, it also feels quite safe. You aren’t too far from a road and there’s four access points along the way, meaning you can opt out if you need. It’s also much cheaper than the West Coast Trail, for which you need to buy a permit.

Everyone has a different idea of what is ‘difficult’. A trail runner told me that, pound for pound, the Juan de Fuca trail is harder than the West Coast Trail. Why? Because of the terrain. There’s lots of big step-ups and step-downs, logs to clamber over and mud to negotiate. You have to constantly watch your footing, or the tangled web of tree routes will trip you up. And the constant elevation change can be a killer on the joints.

Terrain aside, I didn’t find the hike too difficult. For me, the biggest negative of the Juan de Fuca trail is the proximity of the logging industry. Cutblocks go right up to the trail, and in certain sections the second growth forest looks like it’s dead. But perhaps it’s important to see – that way, we can better appreciate the old growth forests that still remain. And anyway, four days of forest wandering, beach camping and tree hugging is always a joy.

In some sections the cutblock goes right up to the trail
Some of the forest looks like it’s dead

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Hiking in Tetrahedron Provincial Park

If you love a backcountry cabin, then Tetrahedron Provincial Park is for you. With four maintained huts to choose from and a network of hiking trails to explore, it makes for a perfect weekend adventure.

Tetrahedron Provincial Park is located on the Sunshine Coast, near Sechelt. In winter it’s a haven for backcountry skiers, who skin up to Mount Steele and Panther Peak in search of fresh lines. Come the warmer months, hikers hit the trails – although not in any great numbers, it seems. When we visited on a sunny Friday evening in August, ours was the only car in the parking lot.

The hiking here isn’t difficult, if you don’t want it to be. You gain a significant amount of elevation when you drive up the logging road to the trailhead. From then on, you can weave your way along undulating trails, past subalpine lakes and boggy wetlands. If you prefer more of an ascent, the hike to Mount Steele is available and is around 8kms (one way) to the summit.

Chapman Lake

There are four backcountry cabins in the park, making this an ideal opportunity to stay overnight. While the cabins are rustic, they are brilliantly maintained by volunteers at the Tetrahedron Outdoor Club. Each has a stove stocked with firewood, a sink and grey water bucket (but no running water), a dining table and benches, an outhouse and a range of survival equipment. Even comfy sleeping pads are provided.

You cannot reserve these cabins – they are first come, first serve. You have to be prepared to share. The upstairs sleeping quarters are cosy, so you might want to take some ear plugs. In theory, the only other items you need are your sleeping bag, cooking equipment, water, toilet roll and dishwashing soap. I always recommend taking a tent, just in case the cabins are full. And you must pack out what you pack in – including food waste.

The hiking route

The great thing about hiking in Tetrahedron Provincial Park is that there are numerous options open to you. I wanted to see as much as possible in 48 hours, so devised a loop that incorporated all four cabins.

From the parking lot, we hiked the 4.5kms to Edwards Lake cabin. The first section is along an old logging trail, which if truth be told, isn’t very inspirational. Then, all of a sudden, you’re deep within the forest. The bushes are teeming with berries in August (and bears!) The terrain is easy-going, so it doesn’t take long until you skirt the edges of Edwards Lake. The cabin itself is a little further along the trail.

Backcountry cabin in the forest
Edwards Lake cabin

We stayed the night at Edwards Lake cabin, which we had entirely to ourselves. In the morning, we left our big packs behind and put together a day hiking bag. We then headed over to McNair Lake cabin, which is 5kms (one way). The trail rolls up and down, over roots and creeks – some with questionable bridges. As you get closer to Chapman’s Lake, the ground gets wet and boggy. McNair Lake cabin appears shortly afterwards.

Backcountry cabin in the forest
McNair Lake cabin

At this point we still hadn’t seen another human being since entering the park. In fact, we didn’t see anyone else until later that afternoon, when we came across a big group heading to Mount Steele. Walking alone to McNair Cabin was almost eerie, and strange for a Saturday in mid-summer. In Tetrahedron, it feels like you don’t have to go far to achieve a sense of isolation and remoteness.

After eating lunch, we retraced our footsteps almost to Edwards Lake cabin. But instead of turning left to the cabin, we continued upwards to Mount Steele cabin, which from this point is 3km one way. It’s a steep climb, so it’s much easier without a fully loaded backpack. From Mount Steele cabin, it’s a short hike up to the summit. We then returned to Edward’s Lake cabin for a second night, and this time we were joined by a local couple.

Alpine landscape with cabin
Walking up towards Mount Steele cabin

In the morning, we packed up all our belongings and returned almost to the parking lot. However, when we got to Victor’s Landing, we took a left turn towards Bachelor Lake cabin. There’s also a stone arrow on the floor to point you in the right direction. This is not a well-trodden path and is overgrown, so you need to follow your nose. You skirt the edge of the valley before descending down into the forest.

Backcountry cabin in the forest
Bachelor Lake cabin

Apparently, Bachelor Lake cabin is the party cabin. We didn’t find any hungover souls, but we did have lunch and a sunbathe by the lake. We then returned to the parking lot via the normal summer trail – just follow the orange trail markers. And there you have it! Two days, four cabins and a few kms under our belts.

Woman sits in front of lake
Bachelor Lake

Of course, you don’t have to follow this route. You can pick and choose which cabins or lakes you want to go to. Some might prefer the out and back to Mount Steele. This seemed to be the preferred destination for the hikers we did meet. Others may opt for the loop from the parking lot to Edwards Lake, returning via Bachelor Lake. For solitude, I suspect McNair Lake cabin is the best bet. It’s entirely up to you.

Know before you go

The road to the parking lot is steep and extremely rough. We just about managed it in a Honda Odyssey – but only just. If you do not have a 4WD with good clearance, do not attempt to make it to the upper parking lot. If you visit in winter, 4WD and snow chains are essential.

The cabins are maintained by volunteers from the Tetrahedron Outdoor Club. If you’re staying, they ask for a donation of $15 per person, per night, or $25 per family, per night. Fees are payable to the Tetrahedron Outdoor Club can be paid online. If you want to send a cheque, there are pre-addressed envelopes in the cabins.

There is no running water in the cabins. In the summer, you can refill at the creeks and the lakes. Water should be boiled or treated. Swimming is prohibited in the lakes and streams within the park because it’s a watershed.

In the summer months the park is bursting with berries. Where you find berries, you inevitably find bears (we saw two). So, be bear aware!

Man holds bowl of berries
Freshly picked berries covered in chocolate

There is little-to-no cell reception in the park.

Conditions are very different in winter. The lakes may be frozen and avalanche hazards exist.

Woman hikes into a forest

Hikes on Vancouver’s North Shore

Vancouver’s North Shore is teeming with hiking trails. In fact, it can be a little overwhelming to know where to start. To help you out, I’ve put together a list of what are (in my humble opinion) the best hikes on Vancouver’s North Shore. That way you can pick and choose depending on your mood.

Where possible I’ve provided links to other sites which provide descriptions of the routes.

Best for little-to-no elevation

Sometimes you want to get outdoors for a good few hours, but you don’t feel up to tackling any mountains. I get it. If so, I recommend the Big Cedar and Kennedy Falls trail on Mount Fromme. This undulating trail is a 10km round-trip, so it’s still a reasonable distance. But with only 150m elevation gain, you don’t need to worry about any thigh-burning ascents.

Dry creek on Mount Fromme

En route to Big Cedar and Kennedy Falls

Another good option is Norvan Falls in Lynn Headquarters Regional Park. It’s very similar in terms of terrain, but is a little longer at 14km.

Woman stands in front of waterfall

Norvan Falls

Both are also great hikes for the winter months, thanks to their low elevation.

Best for steep elevation

On the flip side, maybe you’re keen for a challenge. For some people, a hike ain’t a hike unless there’s a grinding slog uphill. If you’re one of them, I urge you to try Mount Harvey. The hike begins on the logging trail from Lions Bay, then takes a left turn – after which, it’s a steep climb to the top. Once you get there, you’ll be rewarded with some of the best views around. There’s also a secret whiskey stash near the summit!

Mount Harvey summit

Mount Harvey summit

Whiskey stash and note on top of Mount Harvey

The whiskey stash on top of Mount Harvey

If you don’t take the left-hand turn, you’ll end up on the Lions Binkert trail. This is another classic North Shore hike, again with a steep ascent and stunning views.

Because of their high elevation, these hikes are only suitable between the months of July and October (or November if there is no snow). Five hikers died on Mount Harvey in 2017, so please stay safe.

Best for lakes

During summer, you might be keen for a refreshing dunk in an alpine lake. There’s so many to choose from, but I particularly enjoy hiking up to Deeks Lake for a swim. If you start at Porteau Cove then it’s a steep ascent, but that just makes it all the more rewarding. You’ve got to work for it, right?

Two men balance on a log in a lake

Deeks Lake

If you’ve got time, head past Deeks Lake and onto Hanover Lake. It’s not so good for swimming, but the turquoise water set against the backdrop of Brunswick Mountain is beautiful.

Woman looks across blue lake and mountains

Hanover Lake

Remember that alpine lakes are cold! Muscles can quickly seize up, making it difficult to swim. So, stay close to the edge and use a buoyancy aid if needed.

Best for peace and quiet

Despite the abundance of hiking trails near Vancouver, it can sometimes feel like the whole city is out there with you. If you’re craving seclusion, hike to the top of Mount Fromme. You’ll encounter mountain bikers to begin with, but human contact quickly peters out. On a clear day you can see all the way to Mount Baker from the summit.

Woman stands on top of Mount Fromme

Mount Fromme summit

Alternatively, you could make your way to Mount Elsay. Once you get past the turning for Mount Seymour the trail becomes extremely quiet. Although be careful, it can be easy to lose your way. There’s also an unforgiving boulder field to cross. For these reasons, this one’s best left to those with the necessary experience.

Boulder field near Mount Elsay

Boulder field at the bottom of Mount Elsay

Whenever you go on a hike, be sure to leave a trip plan with a family member, friend or colleague. This is particularly important if you’re heading to a lesser-travelled trail.

Best for backcountry camping

If you’re looking for an overnight hike, then top of the charts has got to be the Howe Sound Crest Trail. This 29km trail stretches between Cypress Bowl and Porteau Cove, and takes in a number of the North Shore Peaks. Most people opt to camp at Magnesia Meadows or Brunswick Lake. Take note – this is no walk in the park.

Views across trees and mountains

Hiking along the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Or consider an overnight hike in Seymour Provincial Park. Wilderness camping is permitted north of Brockton Point, although fires are prohibited year round.

Sign towards Elsay Lake

The Mount Elsay Trail is classed as difficult

Don’t forget that snow continues well into the summer months in the North Shore. Hikes such as the Howe Sound Crest Trail and Elsay Lake in Seymour Provincial Park are not do-able until July (unless you are an experienced mountaineer, of course).

Best for foraging

When the forest is dripping with berries, I like to stop for a tasty nibble. In the past, I’ve found the trail to Norvan Falls to be rife with salmonberries, while the trail to Eagle Bluffs offers rich pickings for blueberries. Just remember not to take too much – this is bear food after all!

Woman holds up freshly picked berry

Fresh pickings

It goes without saying that if you don’t know what something is, don’t eat it!

Best for a quick walk

When does a walk become a hike? I’m not sure, but I know that sometimes I just want a little stroll amongst the trees. Nothing too long, and nothing too strenuous. In these situations, my go-to move is either Lynn Loop in Lynn Valley Headquarters, or Rice Lake in Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve.

Gran Paradiso mountain range

Italy’s Best Kept Secret

Gran Paradiso National Park. Ever heard of it? Because I hadn’t. Not until a fortuitous conversation led me to this secret jewel nestled on the Italian/French border.

But before we get to that, here’s a bit of history, along with some geography thrown in for good measure.

A bit about Gran Paradiso National Park

Gran Paradiso National Park is located in the north west corner of Italy, and joins the Vanoise National Park in France. It crosses two regions – Piedmont and Aosta.

The area was first protected by King Vittorio Emanuele II in 1856 who declared it a royal hunting ground. No one else was allowed to hunt there, on the basis that the local ibex population was nearing extinction.

Years later, King Vittorio Emanuele III went a step further and donated the hunting reserve to the Italian state, thus creating Italy’s first national park in 1922. Thanks to his actions, ibex numbers have soared and now live happily alongside marmots, chamois, vultures, eagles and other flora and fauna.

For those peak baggers amongst you, Gran Paradiso National Park is also home to the highest mountain located entirely within Italy. Gran Paradiso (which gives the park its name) stands at 4,061m. It’s true that there are higher peaks in Italy, such Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, but they are shared with other countries.

Mountains and meadows in Gran Paradiso National Park

Enjoying the views en route to Colle della Crocetta

Gran Paradiso and the Italian Alps

However, I didn’t know any of that until a few years ago. In fact, I’d never heard of Gran Paradiso National Park. Nor had any of my well-travelled family, friends or acquaintances. Have we all been living in ignorance, or is this Italy’s best kept secret?

Certainly compared to the likes of Venice, the Amalfi Coast and the Cinque Terre, the masses are yet to ‘discover’ this destination. Yes, there are tourists. But hordes, there are not.

In the summer months the meadows are full of flowers and grazing livestock. Raging rivers and streams cut through the landscape, swollen with run-off. The snow-capped peaks of the Graian Alps tower above you, at once beautiful and frightening. Beyond the treeline, the region’s volcanic history is exposed. The black rocks and barren terrain sit starkly against the lush greenery below, providing a menacing reminder of the altitude at which you are standing.

For people with the necessary experience, there are mountains to conquer and glaciers to traverse. For everyone else, there is a vast network of trails catering to all abilities. Either way, you can rest assured that this is Mother Nature at her finest.

Anyone familiar with the European Alps might say this description rings true of the entire mountain range, which stretches across no less than eight countries. That’s fair enough. But for me, Gran Paradiso holds a special place in my heart.

Maybe it’s because I discovered it entirely by accident. I first became aware of the park while researching a van trip around Italy. While scouring the internet for information, I stumbled upon a Lonely Planet article titled Italy’s Seven Best Hikes. There at number one was a 20km hike through the heart of Gran Paradiso.

Fast forward one week later. I was at a campsite on the Italian Riveria, trying to explain to the man on reception that I was considering a visit to Gran Paradiso National Park. After some confusion (my Italian accent is less than convincing) he shouted “ah ha! This is where I’m from.” I couldn’t believe it! I’d only just learned about this place, now I’d met a real life local. “You must visit my home town, it is most beautiful”, he said.

He wasn’t wrong.

Shepherd's hut in Gran Paradiso National Park

Shepherd’s hut with a view

Piedmont, Italy

Thanks to my new friend’s recommendation, I ended up in a town called Ceresole Reale.

Located in the Orco Valley of the Piedmont (Piemont) region, Ceresole Reale is the last town before a high mountain pass called the Colle del Nivolet. As such, it has that ‘end of the road’ feeling. By which I mean, not many people come here, and seeing as there’s only one road in and out, you’d better hope nothing happens to it.

I stayed at a pristine campsite called Camping Piccolo Paradiso. Despite being August and despite not having booked, I had a choice of pitches to choose from. Opposite is a cosy bar-cum-café-cum-restaurant called La Baita, which is a welcome retreat after a day exploring the wilderness outside.

After setting up camp I spent the afternoon cycling around Lago di Ceresole, which is also a hot spot for windsurfing. The following day I retraced my tracks to the lake, chained up my bike near Villa Poma and followed route 520 to the Colle della Crocetta. This is one of those stunning hikes that takes you through verdant meadows, along the shores of crystal blue alpine lakes, and finally through a moraine to the ridge.

Mountain summit in Gran Paradiso National Park

Atop the Colle della Crocetta

The final day was spent exploring the Nivolet Pass – where, incidentally, the final scene of the Italian Job was filmed. Cyclists and motorbikes are drawn to this road. I can see why. It has gut-lurching hairpins and a steep gradient, making it a challenge. Yet it is stunning. If you make it to the end, you’ll find the Refugio Savoia and a bar. Go and explore the trails, gawp at the moon-like landscape, then enjoy a hot chocolate.

Mountains and lakes in Italy

Exploring the Nivolet

Bar on top of the Nivolet pass

Warming up with a hot chocolate

Aosta, Italy

Now I’d had a taster of Gran Paradiso National Park, I wanted more. So the following year I returned, this time to the Aosta region. I stayed at Campeggio Gran Paradiso in the village of Valnontey, 3km from the large town of Cogne. It was definitely busier here than Ceresole Reale, so if seclusion is a high priority for you, this might not be your cup of tea.

River running through Gran Paradiso National Park

Looking down the valley towards Valnontey

Nevertheless, once you’re out and about, you can quickly leave human contact behind. There are a number of trails straight from the campsite. The valley floor is popular with families, but continue past this and you’ll soon be alone. I found some fantastic hikes in the area, including the one listed by Lonely Planet in their rundown of the seven best hikes in Italy.

This hike follows the Alta Via 2 to the Refugio Sella, one of the many alpine huts open to visitors in the summer months. You can find a definitive list on the Gran Paradiso National Park website. From the refuge, you continue onto Casolari dell’Herbetet and back down to the village. It’s considered a demanding hike, so take heed. If you’re up to it, then it sure is rewarding.

Valley cutting through Gran Paradiso National Park

You need a head for heights on this hike!

As I was making my way down the mountainside, clinging perilously to a chain while the Gran Paradiso massif loomed above me, I had a moment of clarity. In Italian, ‘paradiso’ means ‘paradise’. For me, it certainly lives up to its name. So why has no one heard of it? Who knows, but maybe it’s a good thing.

Man looks across snowy mountaintops

The 10 Essentials for Hiking Safety

While you might not think of hiking as a high-octane, adrenaline junkie activity, it does carry risks. After all, you’re stepping out into the wilderness, which is anything but predictable.

Even if you’re embarking on an easy, well-trodden trail, things can quickly go awry. What if you set off too late and darkness falls before you’ve finished? What if someone rolls an ankle and can no longer walk? What if the weather unexpectedly closes in, meaning you lose your way?

As with all ‘what ifs’, these things may never happen. But they could do. And they could happen to you. That is why you should always carry the ‘10 Essentials’ on each and every hike. Although these won’t guarantee your safety, they could save your life if something goes wrong.

The 10 Essentials

The idea of the 10 Essentials was devised in 1974 by The Mountaineers, a climbing and mountaineering group based in Seattle. Since then the list has developed into 10 ‘systems’ rather than 10 individual items.

You need to bring items from each of these 10 systems on your hikes. Precisely what you bring depends on the nature of your hike. For instance, if you’re taking a short, well-marked trail, you might only need a map and compass. But if you’re striking out into the unknown, you will want a GPS too.

The 10 Essentials are –


Having a source of illumination can make the difference between being able to finish a hike safely in the dark, and having to take shelter for the night. A head torch or flashlight (with spare batteries) will do the trick. Do not rely on your mobile/cell phone – the light is not sufficient and it uses up valuable battery.


Take a map of the area and a compass – and know how to use them! You might also want to take a GPS unit. Again, do not rely on your mobile/cell phone as a means of navigation. Even if you have signal (which you might not), the maps do not provide enough information. What’s more, physical maps you can hold don’t require battery.

First aid kit

First aid kits can vary in scope. At the very least you should have scissors, bandages, plasters, blister kits, dressings, protective gloves and a SAM splint. Antiseptic solution and painkillers can also be useful, but make sure they are not past their expiry date. Also, remember to replace any items that you’ve used before heading out on the trails.

Sun protection

Being exposed to the elements all day can quickly lead to sun stroke and severe burns. Prevent this by taking, and frequently applying, high factor sun screen. Wear a wide-brimmed hat and wear clothing that covers your skin but still keeps you cool.


Situations may arise which necessitate the use of a tool. For instance, you might need to saw wood, build a shelter or open a tin of emergency food. A multi-tool such as a Leatherman or Victorinox Swiss army knife can perform most of these functions. Otherwise, a pocket knife with a strong, sharp blade will do.


If you need to stop for the night, a fire will keep warm. Unless you have excellent bushcraft skills, you’ll need a lighter or waterproof matches to ignite your kindling. A fire starter will also help to get things going.


If you’re going on a day hike and something goes wrong, it could well turn into an overnight hike. This is a terrifying situation to be in, especially if you don’t have any shelter. So, be prepared and carry an emergency bivy bag or something similar. This will help you stay warm and dry.

Extra food

You may already be taking food on your hike, but you need to take extra supplies, over and above what you think you need. That way, if you end up being in the wilderness for more time than expected, you’ll still have something to eat. While Bear Grylls may be able to catch a fish with his bare hands, it’s not actually that easy – best just take more energy bars in case.

Extra water

The same goes for water. Being dehydrated can quickly lead to exhaustion, hypothermia and other issues. Along with taking your own supplies, check the potential water sources before you go, taking into account that they can run dry in warm weather. If you do refill while in the great outdoors, take a water purification system or tablets.

Extra clothes

Finally, take extra clothes. While it might be warm at the bottom of the trail, it can be significantly colder at the top, especially if you’ve worked up a sweat or fallen in water. And if you are outdoors when night falls, things can get very chilly, very quickly. A hat, gloves, jumper and down jacket will keep you snug.

Other things you must do

Along with carrying the 10 Essentials, you should also –

Carry a communications device – such as a fully charged mobile/cell phone in a waterproof case or bag. Know how to find your GPS coordinates on your phone. Of course, you cannot always depend on phone signal, so a personal locator beacon is also a good idea. Also, take a whistle so you can attract attention. It’s louder and more durable that your voice.

Tell someone where you’re going – give a friend, family member or colleague your trip plan. If you don’t return when you’re supposed to, they can raise the alarm. Because they know your general location, search and rescue teams will be able to focus their efforts on a specific area.

Wear the correct footwear – which means hiking boots with a good tread. Not trainers! Shoes that are not made for hiking will be much more slippery and have less ankle support, significantly increasing the chances of injury.

Wear the correct clothes – preferably you should have base layers which wick away moisture, with warmer layers to put on top, as and when needed. Cotton is not a good material for hiking because it absorbs moisture, making your clothes wet, heavy and cold.

Man fishes at sunrise on East Curme Island

Road Tripping on the Northern Sunshine Coast

The northern Sunshine Coast has everything you could ask for – whether you want to hurl yourself down mountain bike trails at Duck Lake or relax on Savary Island’s white sandy beaches, there’s something for everyone.

After spending five fun-filled days there, some friends asked if I would share my itinerary with them. I thought I’d share it here too, just in case anyone is planning a trip to this spectacular corner of the world. However, a word of warning – we crammed as many activities as possible into the little time we had. For a more chilled approach, you may want to pick and choose or spend longer at each destination.

Happy travels!

Day 1 – Inland Lake Provincial Park

Firstly, we had to get to the southern Sunshine Coast, so we drove from Vancouver to Horseshoe Bay, where we boarded the ferry bound for Langdale. Reservations are highly recommended in the summer months. We then continued from Langdale to the second ferry at Earl’s Cove, the cost of which is included in your ticket. You can’t reserve this ferry, so it’s a case of turning up and hoping for the best.

When we arrived at Saltery Bay we headed to Inland Lake Provincial Park, where I’d made an online reservation for the campsite. At the time of writing, it’s $18 per party, per night.

We had planned to mountain bike at Duck Lake first, and you can rent bikes at Suncoast Cycles if you need. However, we were a little behind schedule, so we bypassed this and went straight to the campsite.

After pitching our tents, we set off to explore the 13km walkway around the lake. There were three of us and we only had two bikes, so we took it in turns to run/cycle around, stopping at frequent intervals for a swim. The water’s lovely and warm and there are some small beaches to relax on.

Man stands on wooden platform in lake

Inland Lake

Day 2 – Confederation Lake

The next day we packed up our hiking bags, moved the car all of 20m to the day-use parking lot at Inland Provincial Park, and hiked up to Confederation Lake. We retraced our steps from the previous day, going around the lake for about 2km, after which there’s a sign pointing uphill to Confederation Lake.

The steep climb takes you through an old growth forest and eventually pops out on the shores of Confederation Lake. Being part of the Sunshine Coast Trail (SCT), there’s a free wooden hut that you can stay in, or you can pitch a tent. If you don’t want to stay the night, this is still a worthwhile (and do-able) day hike – not only for the exercise, but also for the gorgeous destination!

We spent the rest of the day swimming in the lake, which like Inland Lake, is balmy during the summer months. There’s an old rowing boat you can take for a spin, and we tried fishing for trout but with no success. The Vomit Vista viewpoint is just another 800m further on if you can manage it and offers lovely views of the mountains.

For a more in-depth description of the hike, read about my brief encounter with the SCT.

Three friends sit outside a wood cabin

My Swiss Family Robinson

Day 3 – Okeover Inlet

After a relaxing morning swimming and fishing at Confederation Lake, we packed up our bags and headed back down the hill to the car. We got onto Highway 101 and drove to Dinner Rock campsite near Lund. This is a free campsite by the ocean, and while it looked perfectly nice, someone advised us that a large group had been causing all sorts of noise issues and we might be better off at Okeover Arm Provincial Park instead.

Feeling that we were in need of a good night’s sleep, we duly took his advice and rocked up at the Okeover Arm Provincial Park campground. I’d not made a reservation but there was plenty of space. The park warden came around later to collect our fees, which at the time of writing is $18 per party, per night.

We spent the rest of the evening pottering around the campsite. There are some little beaches down by the inlet, all full of oyster shells. It’s an absolutely stunning spot to watch the sunset – on a warm summer’s day the sky becomes a colour palette of reds, and the surrounding mountains each turn a different shade of purple.

Couple look across sea inlet at sunset

Okeover Inlet

Day 4 – Savary Island

In the morning we drove into Lund, which is a pretty little fishing village. We parked the car in the upper hotel car park and paid at the hotel reception desk. I’d pre-booked a Lund Water Taxi to take us to Savary Island, which at the time of writing is $22 per person, $3 per bike, plus tax. We hadn’t had breakfast, so headed to the incredibly popular Nancy’s Bakery for one of her famous cinnamon bun rolls.

It takes just 15 minutes to get to Savary Island, but when you step off the boat, you feel like you’ve been magically transported to a Thai island. Think dusty unpaved roads, long stretches of white sandy beaches, and a seriously laid-back vibe that will make you reluctant to return to the mainland.

We already had two bikes, so hired a third at Savary Bike Rentals, which is a short (uphill) walk from the dock. This is definitely the best way to get around the island, although the terrain is not suitable for thin-wheeled road bikes. Cycling can also be something of a hazard, as I spent more time ogling at all the beautiful wood cabins than watching where I was going.

As you do a loop around the island, there are various little galleries and shops you can stop at. We stumbled upon one family-run business selling lemonade and ice coffees from their kitchen. After placing our order, we were duly ushered onto the deck to relax in deckchairs overlooking the ocean.

Above all else, Savary Island is known for its vast beaches and warm waters. In fact, you’ll find the warmest waters here north of Mexico. So of course, beach hopping was the main activity of the day. The tide was out (and the tides here are huge) so we couldn’t really swim, only paddle. We did discover that low-tide is also excellent for clam-picking, but alas, we weren’t equipped.

We finished off our bike tour at Riggers, the only pub on the island. It was then back to Lund where we indulged in dinner at the Boardwalk Restaurant before heading back to our camp at Okeover Arm Provincial Park.

Woman stands in sea up to her ankles

Savary Island

Day 5 – Desolation Sound

We were conveniently placed the next day for the short journey to Powell River Sea Kayak at Okeover Inlet. I’d reserved some kayaks for two days, so we got the paperwork sorted, loaded up the kayaks and launched shortly after 10am. There’s a parking lot where we left our car.

The waters along the Inlet were very calm, although things did get a little choppier as we reached the open ocean of Desolation Sound. After about 3 hours of paddling a mother orca and her calf swam past. They must have been about 30m away, which was incredible.

Read more about my experience kayaking with orcas in Desolation Sound.

Shortly after we reached the Curmes Islands and decided to occupy a couple of camping pads on East Curme Island. If you want to stay the night, you need to buy a backcountry camping permit in advance, which is $5 per person. There are tent pads and outhouses here, but nothing else. If you run out of water, you can paddle over to Unwin Lake and refill from the freshwater stream.

This is an incredibly beautiful spot overlooking Desolation Sound and we all wished we could stay for longer. In fact, the folks at Powell River Sea Kayak were surprised we had paddled so far just for a night, as most people set up base here and then explore the surrounding area for a few days. Even so, it was well worth it!

Tent pad on East Curme Island

Home for the night on East Curme Island

Day 6 – Back to Vancouver

Then it was time to go home. We kayaked back in windy conditions, hopped in the car and made the long journey back to Vancouver. You can buy your return ferry ticket at Saltery Bay.

We were all pretty exhausted, but at the same time we were chuffed to have had such an amazing road trip. It’s incredible what you can pack into such a short space of time, and it’s certainly opened my eyes to the delights of the northern Sunshine Coast. I’ll definitely be back, and am particularly keen to explore the Sunshine Coast Trail and Desolation Sound in more detail.

‘Til next time!

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