Tag Archives: Tofino

A Vancouver Island Road Trip

Vancouver Island is the ultimate playground for the outdoors enthusiast. From skiing in Mount Washington to surfing in Tofino to hiking the West Coast Trail, the possibilities are endless. There’s just one problem. It’s big. Like, really big. To put it into context for those Europeans amongst you, Vancouver Island is comparable in size to the Netherlands.

So when planning a two-week road trip around the island, that posed something of a conundrum – how to fit everything in? In the end, I conceded that it just wasn’t possible. Instead of a whistle-stop tour, I decided to pick and choose a few destinations and take my time exploring them.

Here’s how my Vancouver Island road trip panned out.

Days 1 to 4 – Ucluelet and Tofino

The first stop on the itinerary was Ucluelet, or ‘Ukey’, located on the west coast of the island. We took the ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo, driving to Ukey via Coombes Old Country Market for some supplies. The drive is incredibly scenic, and it’s well worth stopping off at Cathedral Grove en route for a quick walk amongst the old growth forest.

Ukey is not so famous as its neighbour, Tofino, but it’s a great base if you’re visiting the area. The Wild Pacific Trail is right on your doorstep, offering two different coastal walks. There’s the shorter Lighthouse Loop, at 2.6km, and the longer there-and-back trail between Brown Beach and the rocky bluffs.

Woman sits on tree looking out to sea
The Wild Pacific Trail
Woman looks up at tall tree
An ancient cedar on the Wild Pacific Trail

Along with exploring the Wild Pacific Trail, we hiked up the hill at Cox’s Bay. Thanks to the elevation, you get wonderful views across the rainforest on a clear day. We also hit up the surf at Wickaninnish Beach and Chesterman’s Beach, ending each day with dinner cooked over a beach fire.

For more inspiration about things to do and where to stay, take a look at my Top 5 Reasons to Visit Tofino.

Days 4 to 7 – Campbell River

After leaving Ukey, we drove back across the island, then headed north to Campbell River. The town itself is quite small, but quickly gives way to a vast wilderness. I’d booked a lakefront cabin out of town, so spent a lot of time rowing the cabin’s boat around the lake while my friends attempted to catch some trout.

We also spent a morning at Elk Falls Provincial Park, which is just 2km from downtown Campbell River. There’s a platform where you can view the thundering waterfall and a network of easy trails to explore.

Elk Falls Waterfall
Elk Falls

The following day we spent at Strathcona Provincial Park. Expanding over nearly 250,000 hectares, there are numerous hikes on offer, catering to a range of abilities. After a lot of debate, we opted to do the Elk River Trail. In April, the park is still under a blanket of snow. Due to constant post-holing we progressed at a slow place, so had to turn back before reaching the end of the trail.

Three people hike through snow
Strathcona Provincial Park in April

If you want to ski, snowboard or snowshoe, Mount Washington is also nearby. When we were there the season was coming to an end, so gave it a miss this time.

Days 7 to 11 – Cortes Island

Our next destination was Cortes Island, which is part of the Discovery Islands. To get there, you need to take the ferry from Campbell River to Quadra Island, drive across Quadra Island and catch another ferry to Cortes. This sounds like a lot of work, but it’s worth it!

Unfortunately, a storm blew in the morning we were due to leave, meaning the ferries were cancelled until the afternoon. After drinking a lot of coffee in Campbell River, we managed to get on the ferry to Quadra Island. We were then stuck at Heriot Bay on Quadra Island for several hours, but thankfully, the Heriot Bay Inn does good food and has a pool table.

Old wood cabin surrounded by trees
Cortes Cabin

When we finally arrived on Cortes Island, we settled into our beautiful sea-front cabin. During our stay we did a lot of hiking around Ha’thayim (Von Donop) Marine Provincial Park, Green Mountain and Easter Bluffs. We also took advantage of all the fresh seafood on offer, collecting crabs, oysters and clams straight from the shoreline.

Oysters grill over an outdoor fire pit
Grilled oysters

Read more about my time Exploring Cortes Island.

Days 11 to 13 – Qualicum Beach

Next, we returned to Campbell River (thankfully, not a ferry cancellation in sight) and headed back down the coast to Qualicum Beach. We stayed at Spider Lake which is good for fishing, swimming and kayaking, especially as motorised boats aren’t allowed. There’s also lots of trails around the lake to wander around. Horne Lake Caves is nearby, as is Little Qualicum Falls and of course, Qualicum beach (as the name would suggest!)

Lake surrounded by trees with low lying cloud
A misty evening at Spider Lake

This was the shortest stopover, so it felt like we’d only just arrived before it was time to leave for the final destination – Jordan River.

Days 13 to 16 – Jordan River

Jordan River is located past Sooke, about 67km east of Victoria. There’s not much to it, aside from a café and a smattering of wood cabins. But this little place has two major draws.

Firstly, there’s surf! There’s a point break where the River Jordan meets the sea, which is a known (but seemingly friendly) surf spot amongst locals. One person told me the season typically runs until May. It’s also possible to surf at China Beach, which is quieter but rockier. Be warned. My friend’s board took a beating.

Secondly, Jordan River sits at the southerly end of the Juan de Fuca trail. This 47km hiking trail is often completed as a thru-hike in around four days. However, you can explore sections of it as day hikes. You can access the trail at China Beach, Sombrio Beach, Parkinson Creek and Botanical Beach.

We spent the mornings and evenings surfing so only had time for two short hikes. The first was between China Beach and Mystic Beach, while the second was between Sombrio Beach and Sombrio Point.

Woman stands by cliff next to waterfall
Mystic Beach on the Juan de Fuca trail

If you want to camp, the Jordan River campsite is first-come, first-serve. It only has an outhouse (no water) and you pay at the gate. Camping is also available at China Beach and Sombrio Beach. I’ve previously car camped at Jordan River, but this time we stayed in a tiny wood cabin with an outdoor shower and toilet. A truly rustic, west coast experience! Find out more by taking a look @rusticwestcoastcabin

Three people playing Jenga near a campfire
A tense game of outdoor Jenga at our rustic west coast cabin

It’s useful to know that there is very little mobile phone reception in this area. It’s close to the US border, so your phone may also pick up US networks. You might want to turn off your data roaming.

Back to Vancouver

And just like that, our Vancouver Island road trip had come to an end. We were only an hour from Victoria, so on our final day we pottered around the city before taking the ferry from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen.

After two weeks on Vancouver Island, I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface. We didn’t make it to the north of the island at all, and there’s so much still to see and do in the regions we did visit. Even so, hopefully this has provided some useful information if you’re planning a Vancouver Island road trip.

If you have any suggestions of your own, I’d love to hear them!

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Empty beach

5 Reasons to Visit Tofino

Drive as far west on Vancouver Island as you can possibly go and you’ll find yourself in Tofino – a small coastal town of about 2,000 residents, situated on the traditional territory of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation.

It’s not easy to get to. There’s no public transport, so you must drive, fly, or book yourself onto a private bus. It’s at the very end of the road. Travel any further and you’ll find yourself in the Pacific Ocean.

Yet despite its humble size and remote location, Tofino is high on the tourist to-do list. Why? I can give you five very good reasons.

1. Pacific swell

There’s one thing that Tofino is known for above all else – surfing. Of course, there is so much more to this place than just riding waves. But it’s a big draw (and let’s face it, there isn’t an abundance of world-renowned surf spots in Canada). One local even told me that Tofino has the most consistent swell in the whole of North America. I can’t verify this claim, but if you don a winter wetsuit and paddle out, the Pacific Ocean is sure to provide sooner or later. Top surf beaches include Chesterman’s, Cox’s Bay and Wickaninnish (which is also the closest surf beach if you’re staying down the road in Ucluelet).

2. Rainforest walks

Tofino sits on the tip of the Pacific Rim National Park, offering no less than 511km² of temperate rainforest to explore. It’s thick with old growth trees that have lichen dripping from the branches – a sure sign that you’re breathing fresh rainforest air. There aren’t many mountains to conquer, but there are plenty of easy-to-navigate trails that weave along the coast. The walk from Wickaninnish Beach to Florencia Bay is a good place to start – known as the Nuu Chah Nulth Trail. If you’re craving some elevation, head to Cox’s Bay and hike up the hill at the southern end of the beach. It is a bit of a scramble, but the views at the top are worth it.

Woman looks across forest and sea from high vantage point
The view across Cox’s Bay
Two women look across rainforest from high vantage point
Looking across the rainforest from the top of Cox’s Bay

3. Canadian-sized beaches

My mother-in-law says that everything in Canada is big. Judging by the size of the beaches in Tofino, she might well be right. At low tide, the aptly named Long Beach spans a whopping 16km (10 miles). And there’s plenty of others to choose from, including Chesterman’s Beach, Florencia Bay, Cox’s Bay…and so the list goes on. At each, you’ll find the dense rainforest extends right up to the coastline. When the trees finally give way, you’re met with vast stretches of golden sand, refined over the years by the rolling waves of the Pacific Ocean. Due to their westerly position, all the beaches enjoy fantastic sunsets.

Man stares out across empty beach
Florencia Bay

4. Nature, nature everywhere

Following the Clayoquot protests of the 1990s, Tofino and the surrounding area was named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Having been threatened by the logging industry, it is now a nature lover’s paradise once again. The peninsula is encased by water, with the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Clayoquot Sound on the other. Sightings of orcas, humpback whales and grey whales are not unusual. Bald eagles rule the sky, while wolves, bears and deer stalk the forest. There is a sense of the wild in Tofino, and thanks to all the trees, the oxygen-rich air is as fresh as can be.

Back of woman in a red kayak on the sea
Exploring the Clayoquot Sound by kayak

5. West Coast living

Tofino is the very epitome of West Coast living. For non-North Americans, this is a difficult concept to explain. It’s a lifestyle; a way of being. It’s a laid-back vibe, where people cycle to the beach, wetsuit on and surfboard strapped to the rack. It’s jaw-dropping sunsets and small, independent eateries which punch above their weight. It’s a hotchpotch of wooden buildings, ranging from rickety wood cabins to grandiose beach-front pads. It’s a place that makes you forget about work and all the chores waiting for you at home. It’s a place you don’t really want to leave.

Man cooks using a beach fire
Preparing dinner post-surf

When to visit

Tofino touts itself as a year-round tourist destination. The summer months are peak season, during which the crowds can be heavy. May and September are quieter, yet still enjoy good weather. If storm watching is your thing, head there in winter. The ocean puts on quite a show.

Where to stay

Tofino is full of holiday rentals, most of which are available to book through websites such as AirBnB and VRBO. There’s something to suit all budgets. For camping, options include Bella Pacifica Campground, MacKenzie Beach RV and Camping, and Long Beach Campground.

If you can’t find what you’re looking for, try Ucluelet instead (known to the locals as Ukey). It’s at the other end of the peninsula and is a 40 minute drive from Tofino town centre.

What do to

  • Get a surf lesson with Surf Sister or Pacific Surf Co.
  • Book a kayak trip with Tofino Kayaking Company
  • Walk from Wickaninnish Beach to Florencia Bay
  • Drive up Radar Hill and marvel at the views
  • Head to Ukey and walk the Wild Pacific Trail
  • Eat a Tacofino and get a growler from Tofino Brewing Co.
  • Book a boat trip to Hot Springs Cove
  • Have a sunset beach fire on Chesterman’s Beach
  • Book a fishing charter and catch your dinner